Eddie’s Basement Finishing Videos




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38 thoughts on “Eddie’s Basement Finishing Videos

  1. Again, with your videos and assistance on this forum I am slowly, but successfully, making my way through this basement project. The fact that you answer questions here is a HUGE bonus to us who bought the video series.
    So my question now is about the order of operations. I am almost identical to the basement in your video series and doing the small railing on the bottom five stars up to the wall. So the post will be notched like you do with the trim board running on top of that small “half wall”. I will be putting down a laminate, click and lock, floating floor. So the question is, would you do the railing first and notch the flooring around the post and trim, or do the flooring first and set the post on top of the flooring? My guess is flooring first but I keep changing my guess as I think about it. Again, any and all help is appreciated!

    • Hi Jimmy!

      I always do my flooring first and install the null post after the flooring so the post is sitting on the floor for a cleaner finished look! Thanks for watching brother!


      • Thanks Eddie! I thought so but then in your railing video you were doing the railing first so I wasn’t sure if you were just carpeting that job. You are always a HUGE help!!

  2. Hi Eddie. I am getting through the electrical part of your videos and my project. I noticed that in your videos you never hook up the ground wires to your light switches as they are temporary. I never see where you go back and hook them up. Would you just put them all together in one wire nut and pig tail to each switch?

    • That’s one way to do it and that will work. Or…you can twist them all together way back in the box and then simply use the individual ground wires to take to each switch, this way you eliminate having to pigtail a small piece of ground wire to each switch from a nut cap.


  3. Hi Eddie,

    Your videos are amazing. I always get excited when a new video is posted on you tube. So much valuable information and the level of detail is great.

    I also (like Isaac) purchased your videos a few years ago, but life did not allow me to get going on the project right away. I’m ready to start now, but I don’t have a BFU login. Can you send me the BFU login?

  4. Hi Eddie. Following your videos to a tee and working out perfect so far. Your layout in the video is identical to mine. I am also having my brother work with me and even have some Randy Travis in the background like you guys!
    One thing I may have missed in the videos, or maybe it’s not there. I have an open stringer staircase. I followed your guide by adding a full wall from the fifth tread up and will be doing the railing the rest of the way. Question is, how do you drywall and trim around the treads inside the wall? Do I need to make some custom stringer to fit around the bullnose of the treads to close this up? I know drywalling around that is not going to work. I would imagine that I need this done before the drywallers get there. I am not really clear on where the drywall would stop. As always, any help is appreciated!

    • Hi Jimmy! You can cut your treads back tight to the edge of the stair stringers on both sides and add a 1″ x 12″ stringer board to the sides of the staircase so you can trim the gap between the drywall and these new stringer boards come trim time. You could also keep what you have and notch the drywall around the stair treads and then just carpet between the drywall…I like adding the stringer boards personally…it’s a more pro-looking finished product that way!


      • Thanks Eddie. Unfortunately I already framed the two walls on the side of the staircase so I cannot add the stringer. My thought is to remove the treads, drywall up to and around the stringer, and then cut the treads back in up to the drywall. I think this might be a more seamless approach as the drywall would be behind the rise and tread. Any issues with that?

  5. Love your videos. I purchased them years ago (maybe 3 or 4 years ago) when I originally started my project. I stopped working on it once we started having kids and I’m now ready to start on my basement again. With my purchase being so long ago, can I still belong to the BFU? I don’t think I have the email where you sent me the download for the videos anymore. But maybe it’s in your system. Would that be possible? Thank you sir.

    • Hi Isaac! Yes I found your order and I am resending you the product so you can continue on with your basement project! Look for my email that will have your new login info. Thanks again for becoming one of my students.


  6. Do these videos come in DVD or can I just download, I don’t want a bunch of VHS tapes l ike in the image. thanks and sorry if it was on the site, I didn’t see it

    • NO DVD”S! This is state of the art video delivery you can enjoy on any computer, pad or smart phone Dan. You can just login to your account and watch 24/7 from any location you choose…even bring your training videos right onto the job-site for quick and easy reference. Thanks fro your interest…hope to see you inside the members area soon!


  7. Hi Eddie,

    I live in Toronto and am trying to figure out what type of insulation to apply to the interior walls. I was thinking of applying extruded polystyrene boards to the foundation walls to create a thermal break (our building code requires an R20). Next I would build my walls up against the board insulation and then insulate in between with fiberglass batt insulation. Would I also need a vapor barrier over the insulation or does the board insulation against the wall also act as vapour barrier? What do you think of this method?


    • Hi Mark! This will work fine and you will have your R-20 insulation R-factor required by local codes! You will not need a plastic vapor barrier between the framed wall and the Polystyrene insulation board.

      Good luck with this basement project Mark. Thanks for stopping by our basement finishing Blog.


  8. Question on the floor under the fiberglass shower you installed. How to you fill the trench under the shower base? I would not want to leave it unfinished concrete floor where bugs and perhaps mice to get through and under.

    • Mark,

      We simply poured 2 buckets of “wet-loose” concrete mix into the trench under the tub from behind the tub/shower on the opposite side of the wall and floated it out before we drywalled. The hole was completely filled with concrete when we were finished. This has to be done…we had a radon system as well on this project and needed to keep the vacuum seal going under the concrete floor which was broken as long as the concrete floor was opened.

      Good question! Thanks for stopping by our basement finishing site and commenting on this basement video. Good luck with your basement project Mark.


  9. Great series of videos Eddie! As a penny-pinching, amateur DIYer, these have really made me consider tackling a full build-out of my semi-finished basement. It looks like a full-blown waterproofing was done on my basement (trenched around the perimeter + weep holes) before I bought the house, and it’s been dry for several years. There’s a bit of efflorescence at the bottom foot or so of the painted cinderblock in some areas, but no noticeable mold/moisture. Are there any special precautions that need to be taken when considering walling over the weep-holes or where the re-cemented perimeter is concerned?

    • If the perimeter waterproof system was installed correctly the weep holes should be behind either “mirror-drain” or a similar barrier material to prevent any water from escaping the through the weep holes and getting past the new perimeter drain system. So… with that said, Now you can just build your new walls directly in front of the cinder block walls and normal and you will be perfectly safe from any water issues in the future just as long as your sump pumps are all working correctly. I would still keep the 4 1/2″ framing wall lines off the masonry wall and rock and roll with it!


      • Hi Eddie,
        thank you for all the videos you posted, very good basement finishing jobs.
        where do you get the mirror-drain from?


        • Hi Mezin! Thank you! We get the mirror drain from a local plumbing supply company called R.F. Fagers. But you should have someone in your area that carries this product as well. I’d start with a few phone calls to local plumbing material suppliers and I’m sure they can help you locate his product in your immediate area.


  10. Eddie,

    I just wanted to write to tell you what a big help these videos were! The instruction I got from these videos was worth every penny. I cannot imagine how much I would have struggled in my basement finishing project without them.

    Over the course of the last year I finished a 600 square foot basement with a half bathroom. I was a total novice when I started, but was able to do everything (except electrical which I left to a professional) on my own. I especially used the framing, insulating, HVAC, and trim videos. I later purchased the drywall series and used it to hang and finish all of the drywall with good results. I had never done anything with drywall before, and was able to finish it without nearly as much hardship as people led me to believe I would have. Trust me, I would have had a ton more trouble without the videos.

    Just wanted to let you and any potential customers know that these videos were an incredible help!


    Keith M. – Pittsburgh PA

    • WOW! Thanks a lot Keith for this testimonial! I am proud of you man, and I’m glad the video training did it’s job for you. Enjoy your new living space with your family and friends!


  11. Hi Eddie – LOVE your videos. They’re like crack for the eyeballs. What makes them so uniquely valuable is your knack for knowing what we need to know and your ability to explain everything so clearly and concisely right down to the most minute details. I have to say, though, that it was quite a shock – after purchasing the A to Z series – to discover in the HVAC video that I probably CAN’T refinish my basement because we don’t have forced air trunks in the rafters of my basement. We heat our home with baseboard hot water. Unless I have a different furnace installed in my home, it appears I am out of luck on refinishing my basement. That would have been handy information to have before I bought the videos.

    • Hey Jim! Thanks for the compliments on the training videos! Look…you can still finish your basement without forced-air central a/c and heating in your home! It’s just “better” to have this type of system because it moves the air and filters the air in the basement which is a huge plus!

      But you can still finish it without this system! I’ve finished many many basements that did not have central a/c and heating and they turned out fantastic and the homeowners are still enjoying the their new space year after year!


  12. Eddie,

    The A to Z videos are really great, I am going to recommend to every DIY’er meet.

    Fast question: I have pipes that run chest/knee high along parts of my basement walls. Should I lay my bottom and top plates off of the walls to clear these obstacles (I.E. Further then the the 4.5 inches you recommend)?



    • Hello Rich. Thanks man I really appreciate the kind words!

      If your referring to the sewage laterals pipes (Big ugly 3″ to 4″ pipe variety) yes this is what I would recommend. Leave them behind the wall. Find the furthest point in which these pipes protrude from the exterior wall and then add 4″ more inches to that measurement and that measurement number will be what you use for your wall line layout down on the concrete floor. I hope that makes sense Rich :-?

      Thanks for your purchase my friend! I am always here if you have any questions about your project.

      Take care.


  13. Hey Eddie-

    Have you done (or are you planning to do) any videos on basement flooring options? I’m curious to hear what your advice and recommendations are for underlayment / vapor barriers, flooring products, and installation process. Thanks!

    • I am planning on a flooring video later this year Dylan. I’ll shoot you an email when I am ready to launch the flooring series! Thanks for your interest in my training products Dylan.

      Take care my friend.


  14. Hey Eddie,

    Awesome video series! I do have one questions about block nailing while framing. Could block nailing create a moisture issue in block foundation walls?

    • No that won’t cause a problem! Besides if your water table was high enough that ground water would come into the basement where you blocked nailed you would have a serious ground water problem and would definitely need a perimeter waterproof system install! You are fine block nailing in any basement with block walls as long as you don’t have a serious ground water table problem. So nail away!


  15. The recent rains cause water to bleed through the cement block walls in my son’s basement. Fortunately we are a couple weeks of starting the buildout. Adressing the roof gutters and downspouts that may be large contributing factors is being done but may need to do more.

    Thinking about French Drains on the outside.

    Do you have any recs for coating materials for both the outside and inside?

    Any thoughts on using Sinak to harden and densify 50 year old block concrete?

    What about Thoroseal?

    Other products…and NO Vabor Bariers on the walls!

    • If water found it’s way in once, chances are it will find the same paths of “least resistance again when the next “act of God” comes to town! Look, I hate to rain on your parade (no pun intended) but a perimeter waterproof system on the inside of the basement is what’s needed here to be damn 100% sure that you NEVER get water again, especially after you invest your time and money in this project!

      Look into this! Hope this helps.Take care and good luck with this project Nelson.


      • Hi Eddie. I’ve purchased your framing videos and have found them very informative and easy to follow. I have a walk out basement in New England with no moisture problems that I plan to start on soon. I’m sure for you to answer this question again is like flogging a dead horse but can you once and for all put my mind at ease….do I need a vapor barrier? So much conflicting info online on this subject.

        Thanks Buddy!

        • No! Vapor barriers cause more mold than they even prevented. WE don’t use them and never will. We have had no mold issues in doing basements for more than 30 years Nate. Hope this helps.


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