Are YOU ready to tackle your basement finishing project yourself, saving thousands and getting the satisfaction of knowing YOU did it?

Hey, my name is Eddie Case. You may know me as the “Basement Finishing Man” from YouTube.

Since 1992, My basement company and I have finished more than 600 basements and have designed over 2,700. Now, I have condensed EVERYTHING I’ve learned about designing and finishing basements into these easy to follow step-by-step training videos.

These videos are so easy to follow that even folks with ZERO building experience have been able to follow along and build the basement they’ve always wanted.

The fact of the matter is, you don’t need to pay a contractor tens of thousands of dollars to finish your basement for you. You don’t need to waste time and money buying materials you don’t need. You too can have the satisfaction of finishing out your basement yourself and gain valuable experience in the process that will allow you to brag to your buddies and tackle almost any building project in the future.

Please enjoy your stay on my site and feel free to contact me if you have any questions.


  1. Hi Eddie,

    Great videos! Do you have any recommendations on putting together soffit ladders that need to span a length greater than 16 feet?

  2. Eddie – I’ve been coming back to this site every so often – trying to decide whether or not these videos will apply to my specific situation.

    I live in and 1950′s home where the floor joists above the basement are “just” high enough to meet code.

    Before pouring a lot of cash in a project, do you offer consultation services to look at the details of a prospective project and provide feasibility analyses.


    • Hi Chris,

      Yes I offer a Design service that incorporates a lot of conversation about the specifics regarding your project.
      We would be discussing your design in some depths including conversation about ceiling height, framing techniques, wall layouts, floor plan overview, etc.
      I would be here for you during the project for Q & A’s as well.

      Hope this helps Chris in answering your questions. I’m here if you have other concerns.


  3. Hi Eddie, I live near East Berlin, Pennsylvania. Ready to finish my basement. How do I get your company to give me an estimate?

  4. Hi Eddie. Been following your video series to a “T” and all is coming out great. Doing things I never would have attempted otherwise. Being overly cautious especially with electric I wanted to run this by you. Perhaps I missed it in the videos but when you run the light switches you are only putting in the temp switches so you say several times that you are not hooking up the grounds. I never see where you go back and hook them up. Do you wire nut all of them together and create a pigtail for each switch? That seemed to be the most logical to me as we need to get them to the switch but I could be wrong. Always appreciate your advice and continued support for this product that you sell.

    • Hello Jim! Thank you again for your purchase!

      Correct…You twist all the grounds together as far back in the box as you can keeping the ground wires all even in length before twisting them, then after the grounds are twisted you simply attach one ground wire to each individual switch ground screw. No need to pigtail them…just use the ends of the individual ground wires that have been twisted together for each switch. Hope this makes sense to you.

      I do show you how I hook them onto the switches in the electric part two video.


  5. First a huge thank you for taking the time to help everyone here! I did purchase all of your videos which I would not even think about tackling this project without! One thing I am going to include in my basement is a wood, or pellet freestanding stove. I have a flu running there already so I will most likely need a liner dropped. I don’t see anything about considerations for this. Run the liner first? Framing around it? Special wall material required? I would want to do some stone work behind it so I am sure that comes into play here too. Any videos or advice you have already published out there? I don’t want to get to the end and the chimney guy tell me we have a stud in the way! Thanks again!

    • btw, when I say flu, there is a chimney coming down to the basement already. I am sure there are some considerations here from framing, insulating, wall board, etc. Am I over my head here?

    • Your existing flu may be all you need and really should’t need a flu-liner…but I would need to be standing there looking at it in person..

      What I would do is get a fireplace company down to access the flu and your stove position and have them tell you or make suggestions for what needs done…that way you will know right away!

      Once you find out for sure then I can assist you better Jim…these flues get really HOT and you need to have an insulated “sleeve” that is usually a metal and ceramic devise, that would need installed through the framed 2″ x 4″ wall to keep the stove exhaust pipe from coming in contact with the wood framing (a fire hazard if not done right!).

      We use “ventless gas fireplaces 90% of the time to avoid all the venting steps. Be careful with this installation…I usually just have a Pro do it for me instead of me messing with it.


  6. have a basement of 170m2 and need to add a full toilet, kitchen which system to use up flushing, Pressure-assisted toilet or Sewage-ejector systems

    • Sewage ejector installed below concrete floor is the very best system by far! You definitely need this type system Hassan, a pressure assisted toilet is not going to work with the kitchen!


  7. Eddie. I have learned a lot from watching you on YouTube (have commented and you have responded a few times). Just wanted to say Thanks a ton. You have become my go-to when I need a reference on something. Unfortunately I found you well after I had already started my basement project. So I was able to see what I was doing right, and more importantly what I can do ‘better’. You’ve inspired me to take videos of my progress and post them as well to YouTube. I know you’re a busy man with your site, YouTube and of course actually finishing basements. But I would love if you would check out my progress. I have some final touches to do on framing before I move onto electrical, insulation, the drywall, etc. Thanks again.
    Mike (Diesel Mike on YouTube)

    • Hi Mike Looks nice I can see my style of framing all over your framing (soffits, walls, support columns, etc.) email me if you have any technical questions good luck with your project. Be careful taking out those studs on your stairway wall they are load bearing and you will need to put a header in that wall where you planning on opening it up.


  8. Hi Eddie! I’m looking to put a walk up wet bar in my basement. What dimensions would be “standard”? I don’t have ton of space – ideally it wouldl be wide, but I do want a sink, fridge, and a cabinet or two. Is that enough space? Would increasing it to 5′ give me more standard options?

    • Hi Dave! I usually do a 5′ wide walk-up bar and that would just have a 2′ refrigerator space under the top and a 36″ sink base beside it for the bottom of the bar. I would then use 3 wall cabinets above on the wall to balance it out (one 15″ wide on each side and a 30″ in the middle) and that’s it!


  9. When making cuts, should you cut directly on the line you’ve marked, or should you leave some sort of tolerance one way or the other? Circular saw blades are usually a lot thicker than a marked line, so I’m wondering if I’m cutting a lot more than I should be or if there’s a trick to knowing for sure.

    • Hi Jeff! We always just leave the line visible…don’t cut the line-out…leave it! If it fits perfect that’s great…if it needs a little bit more cut off you can trim the piece to a perfect fit if need be.You can always cut a little more off a piece that is too long, but you can’t add any wood back if you cut it too short! There’s an old saying that goes…”It’s always better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it!”


  10. I have purchased your basement finishing video set and it’s proving to be extremely helpful. I have one question before I start with the project.
    The previous owners installed this silver foil bubble wrap on the interior foundation walls. Is it ok to just leave it in place and frame as normal? I can’t see it doing any harm. Possibly some benefit but wanted to be sure. Thanks for any advice.

    • Hello Jim!

      Yes this is just a wall blanket insulation wrap which does in fact increase the overall R-Value of your basement walls…just leave it and dive right into your framing project. Good luck with your project and thank again for purchasing my basement finishing training!


      • Following your advice and all is turning out great so far. I did have someone over who happens to be a contractor and said “you can’t leave that foil wrap up, the foundation has to breath!”. Is there any truth to that. The foil wrap has been there since I bought the house and is caulked to the floor and taped so is sealed pretty well. Should the foundation have to breath?

        • Just searching and I believe the product is the EcoFoil. It’s kind of rigid like a styrofoam with a foil front. It’s currently glued to the block and has been since I bought the place a year ago. I look at the installation instructions on the Web sight and they do say to use furring strips between the foil wrap and wall. Do you suggest ripping this all out? If so, would you put it back with the strips or use some other material? The site is

          • Correction, it is a foam board called PolyShield. Sorry for all of these posts. Just doing some research on my own.

  11. Hi Eddie,

    (I tried posting this elsewhere and it wouldn’t work for some reason.)

    I’m just getting started with planning my basement finishing project. My house is 106 years old and the basement floors are uneven. Would you still recommend I build my walls flat on the floor? How would you recommend I handle this situation? Shims?

    I was thinking I get my footers and headers secured and then cut my studs the appropriate lengths…of course this will take much longer.

    Thanks for your help!

    • Hello Jacob!

      It does not matter if your older concrete floor is “up & down”! Just build the wall flat like I show you in the framing training videos. Measure each stud at it’s own location by measuring up to the bottom of the floor joists, directly off of the top of your “stacked” wall plates, and cut those measurements minus 1/4″, and that will be each individual studs length. You can then assemble the wall on the floor completed and stand the new wall up, all pre-assembled, and into position and fasten your new built wall like a PRO!Not Rocket Science for sure…!

      I DO NOT “stick build” my walls, which is what you do when you fasten the top plate and then the bottom plate and then cut and add one stud at a time…this takes forever and will require all of your nailing to be angle “toe-nailing”…which splits the studs at the top and the bottom of the stud and also makes for weaker constructed walls!

      Hope this helps. Thanks again for becoming a Basement Finishing University(BFU) member!


  12. Eddie, I purchased your pro series and have a framing problem. My staircase has a steel beam running next to it. I need to put studs up along the staircase for drywall, but the only thing to fasten the header of the wall is the steel beam. I doubt the ramset will punch through 1/2 inch thick steel and since the steel has rust liquid nails seems like a bad option. Any thoughts or recommendations?

    • Hi Jason!

      Use the Ramset and shoot the top plate into the steel beam(wear safety glasses!) The steel pins from the Ramset will hold! They may not penetrate completely but they will grab and hold forever. I do this all the time and the wall will be very solid along the top plate.


      • barry
        on April 13, 2016 at 2:31 pm said: Your comment is awaiting moderation.

        the way my basement is laid out, my main section is 10 ft wide and 40 ft long. should I hang 10 ft drywall and eliminate all butt joints. This would be running them with parallel with the ceiling joists. I want it to look good when I’m done.


        • Hi Barry!

          As long as your joists overhead are 16″ on center and not 24″ you can run the board parallel to the joists to avoid butt joints.


  13. Eddie – thanks for all your videos. They’re great.

    I’ve been doing a lot of research on various components of finishing a basement and right now I am focusing on insulation. I know that you don’t use XPS rigid foam on your walls but A LOT of research suggests that simply using fiberglass batts can lead to mold issues. Do you not agree with this?

    I don’t have a wet basement but my foundation walls “bubble” and crumble in some parts even though it’s been covered in drylock. Seems that moisture is “trapped” in the walls and tying to make it’s way out.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thank you

  14. Eddie-
    Bought your full video series a year ago- just now onto the project. your videos have helped me get all the way to drywall- this weekend it happens, thanks! question is, dry walling my ceiling and the way my joists run and my room is long and narrow (37′X17′) I will have twice as many butt joints on the ceiling if I run drywall perpendicular to the joists. with 10′ sheets of drywall, if I run the parallel with the joist I can have as little as 10 butt joints on the whole ceiling vs. 16 or so if I run the drywall perpendicular with joists- what do you think? is the downfall of running parallel worth it for an amateur to get less butt joints? I am taking on the drywall myself, against your advice I know- but I’ve come this far on my own!. thanks for your thoughts!

    • Hi Dan! You can certainly hang the drywall parallel to the joists as long as your joists are nice and straight and even along the bottom. I still would recommend hanging the board perpendicular to the joists it’s definitely more “forgiving” in terms of uneven less than perfect framing.


      • Hi Eddie, well after hanging 80% of the drywall in my 650 sq ft job- I see why you say to sub that part out, wow its brutal. two questions- I live near you in boiling springs so I’m hoping you have an idea of pricing for me. I had a guy come give me a quote to mud and sand now that it is all hung and he quoted $1000-$1200 does that sound in the ballpark for you? additionally would you have any drywallers you’d recommend I could call being as I do live close to where you do all your work? thanks Eddie, video’s have really helped- the drywaller said for a beginner this was a pretty good job- so the videos do work!

  15. Hi Eddie,

    Just purchase the video set and i’m about to start the back wall framing. I have a 55 foot wall that have plumbing (PVC) in the middle the run across the entire length of the wall. How do I frame this wall. Do I still measure 4.5″ from the wall? or measure 4.5″ from the end of the PVC plumbing.

    • Hi Michael! Yes you got it right…go from the furthest point of the PVC pipe from the masonry wall and then go 4 1/2″ from that point. This way all of the PVC will be completely behind your entire wall.


  16. Good Evening Eddie,

    I purchase the Pro Video series about a year and half ago and love it! I finally have drywall up, finished and a primer coat applied to ceilings and walls. Looks like you do your finish coats of paint and have electrical complete prior to trimming out the basement. Is this your standard recommendation? Also, do you install cabinets prior to trimming?

    You have been an enormous help in the past. Thank You!

    • Hello Jon! Not necessary to do it this way Jon…you can certainly trim first and then do final painting and finished electric. We do it both ways depending on which I guys on my crew I have access to first!

      We do install cabinetry before trim most of the time because the trim usually ends-up being fashioned around the bar in some way (Base trim, chairrail, etc.) so the cabinets need to be in place first.

      Thanks again for your purchase Jon. I’m always here for all my students that have project questions 7 days a week!

      Happy Holidays.


  17. Hey Eddie. Just watched your video on framing basement windows. Just wondering what the best way to frame them would be when the windows are recessed and already framed into the foundation with 2×6′s. Would the sill not be too deep and look funny if I were to frame them out with 2×4′s as well?

    • Hi Curt! No it won’t look funny because you will be trimming the windows out with deep extension wood jambs that will give a nice deep recessed window pocket that look GREAT! Just rough-frame the opening in your new 2″ x 4″ wall to match the 2″ x 6″ existing framing exactly and then when it’s time to trim the windows you will be setup already for the correct opening for your new wood window boxes to be built and then “slid” right into position!

      I show you how to build these window extension jamb boxes in the exterior window and door trim video series located over at the website.

      Good luck with your project!


  18. Hi Eddie,

    I have been looking at doors at home depot for the basement and they no longer have the “split jamb” doors you use in your video. Are they called something else or is there another door you would recommend using to make the installation easier? Thanks!

    • You have to order them Brad! But you can still get them.
      You should check around with a few local building materials suppliers locally and see who else might carry them…You can still get them, I have probably installed 30+ split jamb doors this month alone.


  19. Hey There,

    The video series is fantastic and I’m cruising right through my basement project! It seems the shower I purchased is quite different from the one in your video and will require some sort of bedding…maybe a grout or mortar? However, the “good people” at Home Depot have no idea what I should use, and the instructions that came with the shower system (3 walls and the base) offer no help either. It’s a fiberglass base that I wouldn’t feel comfortable standing on If it were simply sitting on the concrete floor. Eddie, do you have recommendations for what sort of bedding I should put underneath this shower base?
    Many thanks!

    • Yes concrete the floor shut and then use either “Low expansion” foam or a 5 gallon bucket of joint compound spread evenly under the base. Either way, foam or joint compound the floor first, then install the shower base into the wet foam or joint compound immediately after you apply it. Then, once these compounds set up under your base, you will have much sturdier, crack resistant shower pan base for your new shower.


  20. Hey Ed, I’m considering travertine tile 8×20 size tiles on the floor and walls in my bathroom…. What trowel size would u recommend?

    • Those are BIG tiles! I would use a 1/2″ square notch trowel. These bigger tile take a big bed of thinset to get level! Nothing looks better in my opinion than large tiles in the basement!


      • bathroom not basement but yeah i know what you mean…. the bathroom is type small as its only 26sqft of floor space then the tub surround but i feel like as long as i go large tiles keep everything bright then bathroom will appear larger then it really is….

  21. Hi Eddie, I am starting to finish my basement thanks to your videos. I have multiple pipes like hot and cold water and gas line, if i want to drywall the ceiling how would you go about doing that since i am unable to just screw the drywall strait to the floor joists? Thanks.

    • Brad,

      In the Framing Part 4 video towards the very end of that video, it has a section where I teach you “Banding-Down” ceilings for drywall to drywall ceiling’s around pipes and wires! This is exactly what you need to watch and you will be 100% ready to tackle this framing method! Thanks again for your purchase Brad.


  22. Hey Eddie if I want to do 24″ on center with my studs should I do 23 1/4″ from the first 3 1/2″ mark then go 24″ from the 23 1/4″?

    • Yes Mando that would be the correct 24″ on center layout. But…you should always do 16″ on center if you are framing walls! 24″ on center layouts are only for soffit framing!


  23. Hey Ed, is there an email where I can send you a photo of my bathroom? I have a question but the photo will help my question be more comprehensible… Thanks!

  24. Hey Eddie, Question…. the easy sand 45, i know you guys used it to catch your corner bead up so u can get 2 coats on n a day…. if i wanted to get 2 coats on all my joints n a day would i use easy sand 45 aswell? Can i? its for my bathroom that im going to gut out and start next week..

  25. Hey ed, i was watching your tile videos for the master suite you did, you always reference home depot just curious is that where you got those good looking tiles? lol

    • Either Home Depot or Lowes 90% of the time Stephen. We also use a local tile distributor called Conestoga tile which is a HUGE tile showroom where you can find ANYTHING under the sun tile!


  26. King eddie, I was looking at the comment below mines and it brought to mind another drywall question…In your drywall series i notice in the area by the soffit, where the stairs were, on the other side of the steps there was no wood framing just a concrete wall or block wall. As your project went on (off camera) you put the drywall in. did you adhere the drywall directly to the block wall or did you put in wood later, what is that process?

    • Hi Chris! We used drywall adhesive and nailed it directly to the concrete wall using a few 1″ fluted nails that we hand-nailed through the drywall into the concrete to just hold the drywall in place until the glue set. Then we finished this board as normal. It’s the only way to do this stairway when you need the “older drywall” in the upper stairway to match the plane of the new drywall and make it all look “seamless” when finished.


  27. Hey Eddie, do u have or are you planning on releasing a shower doors not installation (not custom like the master bath u did because i know u sub that out but regular sliding tub doors etc.. and pedestal sink video any time soon?

    • Hi Chris! I am working on this video now. Problem is…no two shower doors are the same for installations! So although I will be able to give you a very good generalization of how a shower door is installed, you will still need to follow the manufacturers installation instructions that your door comes with from A to Z to be 100% sure how your door should be installed : – )

  28. Hi Eddie,
    Your videos are great. They have given me the courage to finish my own basement.
    Question: How to you frame walls that come together at an angle?

  29. Hey Eddie Question, if im putting 1/2 Durock on the floor instead of hardie backer board, shud it still be set with thinset then nailed over top or can it be installed without? andwouldu recommend getting the1/2 or 1/4 inch… Lotta construction guys are saying i don’t have to put the thinset to install the durock, but i value your answer more than theirs honestly lol.

    • Always set your Durock in a bed of thinset Chris! I always use the 1/2″ just to extra conservative…call me old fashioned, but I rather be safe than sorry: – )


  30. Hi Eddie,
    I recently purchased your KRU video. My question is if you are tiling over a concrete floor how level should the concrete floor be? If it is not perfectly level, let’s say there is 2 mm dip for every square feet can I just put a Hardi backer board on top of a concrete floor that is not level or I have to apply a leveling compound? Can those imperfections be compensated by applying a thick thinset?

    • Hi Paul! Never use Hardi backer board over a concrete floor to level it for tile! Always use a goo floor-leveler compound to “float-out” a nice level surface for the tile surface.


  31. Hey King Eddie, so I have a situation….. I need to put a door downstairs in my basement… I live in NYC I asked 3 different Home Depots if they had split jamb doors and I swear its like speaking a foreign language to these people they clearly don’t have it in stock so it would have to be a special order. But they have no idea what I’m talking about. (Management needs to thuroughly train these employees better) anyways the rough opening is not standard at all … its 36 x 80 and I would like a sj door to make to process faster and easier without removing drywall or reframing the opening etc… logically I’m thinking I would take the exact measurement of the not standard opening give it to them and have split jamb door made specifically for that opening (which would usually be the case) but if they are clueless on what I’m talking about what am I to do any advice…. Because I swear lol they take these young people who are placed in these positions without have expertise in doors and it sucks…

  32. Hi Eddie,
    I purchased your BFU but now I want to purchase the KRU and BRU would I get a discount for the KRU and BRU combined. Please let me know.


  33. Hey Eddie,
    I purchased your basement finishing series and so far it has been awesome. I have the basement framed and the electrical mostly ran and I am getting ready for drywall. I have 2 different 3 way lighting circuits ran in the basement and I am just now hooking them up to the electrical panel. The first 3 way circuit got connected and works like a charm. However, the other one isn’t working. I wired the ceiling cans exactly as you show in your video and when I use a volt tester, I can tell that all wires going in and out of each can have power running through, but the lights aren’t coming on. I wired both circuits exactly like you do in the videos so I am completely baffled as to why one is coming on and the other isnt. The switches are getting power and sending power to the lights and each wire coming and going from the light cans are all “hot” when I put the meter to them but the lights just arent coming on. I am using the exact same recessed cans that you use in the videos as well. Any ideas what I need to look for to troubleshoot?

    • If there is power at the light cans you have to have either the lights wired wrong inside the light fisture nutcaps or your wired incorrectly at the switches.

      Double check you connections…make sure all the black wires are all together in one cap and the white wires are all together in the other cps inside each light can, make sure your grounds are all connected together as well and are on the ground screw inside each light fixture.

      Make sure your Hot wire for your 3-way circuit(black wire) is on the “point” screw on one 3-way switch and that you light wire on the other side of the 3-way circuit is on the other point screw on the 3-way switch the red wire and the other black wire are travelers and just go on either of the other screws on the 3-way switch. Also make sure all of the white wires inside each switch box are all together inside a nut cap and that your switch has a ground wire connected to the ground screw on each switch as well.

      If this does not correct the problem you have not wired the light cans circuit correctly and you will need to re-trace each wire from the panel box to the switch box and then to each individual light can.

      Hope this helps.


      • thanks Eddie, I was able to solve the problem. My 2 switches that share the 2 gang box are on 2 different circuits and precious I had all 4 white wires connected together. I went back and separated them and only tied each of the 2 whites that share the same circuit together. This solved the issue and the lights functioned properly.

        • Awesome Brandon! Glad you got it fixed. You normally do not have 2 hot wires in a box, but when you do, you are correct …you must treat each of the white wire that accompanies it’s black hot wire as a separate circuit and therefore must keep the white wires for each circuit separated in their own nut caps.

  34. Eddie,
    I am about to frame around duct work and watched your video segment on that several times. I am wondering, can I use 2 x 2 instead of 2 x 4 ‘s for the ladders or is there a greater chance of the 2 x 2′s twisting?

    Dave Parke

    • 2″ x 4″‘s are much less prone to “splitting-out” when nailed together in a soffit configuration. It’s hard to get 2 nails in each end of all of the crossover pieces with a 2″ x 2″ setup. I wouldn’t use the 2″ x 2″‘s Dave, stick with the 2″ x 4″ framing and you can’t go wrong.

      Good luck with your project. I’m always available if you need to talk about the project!


  35. Eddie, thanks for the videos and information. A couple questions. I know you’re not an advocate of taking down the insulation blanket against the concrete wall. I did before I saw your videos and put up XPS panels. The blanket used about 3-4 inch fiberglass and was only covered on the inside (i.e., the side against the concrete was uncovered). My framing is going next the XPS. My question is this: can I reuse the fiberglass insulation that was removed to fill in between the stud cavities of my walls. I know it will be a pain to cut it and put it in but I don’t want to waste if I can reuse it. If I can, would be better to put it in the walls or between the floor joists in the ceiling? Lastly, if I have a sofit I need to build between a wood beam and the wall (wood beam is the lowest point), how would you put up the cross beams since I don’t have any ladders coming down from the ceiling? Thanks for all your information!

    • Hello Gordon! I might consider it as a sound buffer for the ceiling but definitely not in my new framed exterior walls…for the walls use R-13 fiberglass vapor faced insulation.

      Level over to your wall opposite the beam off of both ends of the bottom of your pre-installed soffit ladder. Then snap a line even with the bottom of the soffit ladder. Shoot 2″ x 4″ (which is called banding) to that chalk line and then cross over even with the bottom of the soffit ladder to this added banding to complete the bottom of this soffit. This way the soffit is perfectly level from the bottom of the soffit ladder to the wall as it all ties together nicely. I show you how to do this in detail in the soffit framing videos included with the Pro Video A to Z basement product.

      Hope this helps Gorden.


  36. Hi Eddie,
    I purchased your Basement finishing PRO A-Z videos, but I could not download the the Kitchen finishing videos, do I have to purchase the Kitchen remodeling videos separately? and how much?

  37. Thanks, Eddie I just purchased your videos before the end the promotion, and I must say that I am glad that I did, I will definitely start my own handyman business. Merry Christmas and a Happy new year. My wish for you is that you will make more videos so that we can continue to learn.

  38. The Bar Building Series is now live inside the Basement Finishing University(BFU) for everyone that has been inquiring about this new training! There are 26 Videos in this video series.


  39. Hi Eddie-

    Great Videos! I got through all of the framing and plumbing videos but still can’t figure out if I’m on the right track. The exterior walls in my poured concrete basement protrude a couple inches and its preventing me from building a flat wall. I took a stab at what I think might work and was wondering if you could take a look and maybe suggest something different if necessary. This will be a bedroom and its a bit smaller due to a load bearing wall interior wall which is why I am not building one long wall to save space. (See photos here for a better understanding

    Also if this does work I’m not sure when I should start spacing for my studs. Should I treat them as two independent walls or treat them as one?

    One last thing in the Plumbing videos I see you ran a water line for an ice maker, it didn’t show how you did it or what you tapped into. Can you please provide a bit more insight here.


    • Hey Chris! Treat them as one wall and make sure you carry the 16″ center layout over to the second wall so the 16″ center marks work their way down from the first wall right over and down the second wall!

      For the ice maker we tapped a 1/2″ PEX water line with a standard 1/4″ ice maker line kit per the ice maker line installation kit instructions.

      Good luck with your projects Kris! Happy New Year buddy!


  40. Eddie,

    I have been watching your videos on YouTube and I am trying to determine whether or not I should purchase the A-Z or the Basement University. One question I do have right now…..I noticed in your YouTube videos you do not install any type of vapor barrier on your walls or basement floor. Why is that? I thought building code was to apply a vapor barrier on the “Warm in Winter” side of your walls? Also wouldn’t best building practice be to apply a dimpled plastic polyethylene on the floor followed by a plywood underlayment and then carpet?



    • Hi Tim!

      Well the Basement Finishing University is twice the training of the Pro Video A to Z training…so if you want the most help for your project the BFU id definitely the way to go.

      Vapor barriers on basement wall create more mold and moisture issues than they solve. I do not use plastic vapor barriers…exterior wall need to “breath” to stay dry and mold free. You can’t believe everything you read!

      Thanks for your interest in my basement training products Tim…you will not be disappointed with the quality or the depth of this training!


  41. Happy T’Day, Eddie & team!

    Great video series – I commute from CT to NYC by train daily, and watched the videos on my laptop several times while progressing through my project. One comment/question on installing the drywall, perhaps this is covered and I missed it. For full 48″x96″ sheets installed horizontally with one of the long tapered edges 1/2″ off the floor, the taper affects the angle of the 3-1/8″ trim mold enough to create small gaps in the wall corner joints. I’ve already installed all the bottom trim, and filled the gaps with painter’s caulk. Should I have installed the drywall differently to avoid this? Or is there drywall that has only one tapered edge on a sheet?


    • Hi Andy!No the tapered edge does go down on the floor but it is kept up about 1/2″ from the floor…not touching the floor. 3 1/4″ tall base trim should not be effected by the tapered edge if installed correctly, I’m not sure why your base trim had gaps?


  42. Hi Eddie.great videos, my project slowly progressing. Question about new videos, like basement bar, etc: where do you put them up? They don’t appear on site, which I have membership for. I recall you said that it is the same as your BFU site. Am I mistaken?

    • Hey Yuri! How’s it going! OK…YES it is in terms of new Video content being automatically added when available. I do not have the bar video series published yet, it will be available later this month early next month…still a few tweaks and she’s ready! This is an AWESOME Bar Building Training series with 9 videos included! You are going to be able to build that DREAM BAR using this product…that’s for sure! Thanks for inquiring. Talk soon.


  43. Hi Eddie.

    Thanks for the fantastic videos – they will prove to be helpful as I work on our basement. We are getting ready to begin framing our basement and the previous owner placed linoleum and quite liberally added the adhesive. Will i need to remove all of the linoleum, or is it possible to frame on top of the linoleum? Just looking to grab your thoughts on this. Thanks in advance for the help.


    • Hi Pete! Try and get as much of the old flooring off the concrete as possible and then let it go! If your doing carpet and padding you will never know it’s there. If you are doing tile you will need all the loose stuff 100% removed so the new ceramic does not pull loose in time. If you are doing a floating floor or a synthetic floor it is very important to try to get back down to the original concrete so no bumps are visible in your new floor.

      It sucks..I know! But getting as much if not all the old flooring up will be beneficial for your your new flooring. Also it’s easier to get up BEFORE you frame!Thanks for stopping by my basement finishing Blog!


      • Thanks so much – the basement is huge – here is to my weekend of getting 1800 sqft of linoleum up off of the flooring. wish me luck…I certainly appreciate the advice!

          • Thanks! I did – and a couple replacement blades. 30 yr Linoleum is brittle as ever; this part of my job may take longer than anticipated. Have a great Thanksgiving!

  44. Hey King Eddie i have a question… when u do bathrooms and in the tub or shower area, if you are keeping a drywall sealing do you waterproof the drywall as well with the redguard prior to painting or is the MR Board enough?

  45. In building the first soffit for my basement finishing project, the two ladders are 15 feet long. I had to shim an end of each ladder by about 1/2 inch down from the joists to make them level. So, each ladder span of 15 feet is level and each ladder is level with respect to the other ladder which is what we want. My concern is the fact that when the drywall goes up, the distance from the top of the soffit to the bottom is going to be 1/2 inch longer on one end than the other. It may or may not even be noticeable when finished, but it sure is irritating and going to be in the back of my mind. Is this a common occurrence and should I have done something different? I have two more soffits to build and I’m a perfectionist. Any advice will be appreciated. I’ve learned a lot from your videos on YouTube. Thank you.

    • Hey Dave…welcome to the basement world! This is normal, I have them 2″ out from time to time. But guess what…nobody can tell. You are the only one that will know about it and it’s normal in construction…especially in basement for this to happen to soffits. It’s better to have this distance be out a little than to have an out of level soffit. Your doing great, and that was a very good question!


  46. I’m trying to frame a wall in my basement, but I don’t have access to the floor joists, due to the gas pipe and duct work that are directly overhead, & runs the entire length of a wall that is about 25 feet long. Can I frame directly into the foundation wall? If so how do I ensure that it’s plumb? If not, what are my options? Thanks!!!

  47. Hi Eddie – relating to the tiling a tub videos in your bathroom remodeling series, i was wondering why you put particle board on the 2 by 4s on one side of the tub but not on the other? why didnt you just nail the cement board right to the 2 by 4s? thanks!

    • Hello Greg!

      It was because the original builders framing was off about 1/2″ to big for our new tub it was 61 1/2″ and we needed only 60″ so we added the plywood to one side to reduce the framing width.


  48. Eddie, I really enjoy your videos and am almost confident enough to start on my basement :) . One issue that I’ve discovered is the builders did not place blocking between the floor joice and the basement wall and have sprayed foam insulation along the tops of the concrete. Would you recommend trying to install some type of brace to secure the top plate or just run the framing along the first floor joice and leave about a foot gap between the basement wall and the framing?

      • Hi Rick! OK…this is easy to remedy, just cut a small piece of that wall blanket wrap out to expose the concrete where you want your wood blocking to go.


    • Hello Rick! I would insert and nail wood blocking between the rim joist and the first joist from the exterior wall so I have solid wood to attach my top plate of the wall too. The other option would be to install wood blocking on the exterior wall and “block-nail” my newly framed exterior walls. I show you how to do both options in the Pro Video A to Z training inside the 4-part Framing series.Thanks for stopping by my website and commenting!


  49. Hi Eddie,
    How do you frame walls that come together at more than a 90% angle so that you are able to hang the dry wall properly? I would like to angle my floor-to-ceiling wall in the corner to avoid the sump pump pit and put in a door to access the area. In one of your videos you show how you designed a TV platform to cover the sump pump. I tried to see exactly how it was framed but it was hard to make out. Can you help me?

    • To do this Mark you cut your top and bottom wall plates at a 22.5 degree angle so when joined together these cuts form the 45 degree angle wall section your looking to build. Make sure you install this 45 degree wall perfectly plumb when setting and fastening to the concrete floor and to the bottom of the floor joists. Thanks for stopping by our Website!

  50. Fantastic video set!! I only want to make one suggestion for all people who expand living space to the basement. A very inexpensive way of saving firefighter’s lives along with family members is to attach sheetrock to the underside of your stairs (doesn’t need to be finished or painted). Sheetrock greatly increases the longevity of steps during a fire. I commend you for putting in a great egress window!!

    • Yes this does help extend the burn time underneath the staircase Jonathan. You could turn that space under the steps into a nice finished closet and pick up some nice finished storage space while adding a fire barrier at the same time!


  51. hi Eddie,

    I just purchased the A to z pro series video and my husband and I are ready to start working on finishing our basement. our basement exterior walls have been framed and insulated by the builder. my husband and I only need to wood frame the interior walls . I noticed in your framing videos you never mentioned steel studs. so I guess my question is do the rules you used for wood framing apply for steel/wood framing? we are having trouble building our interior walls off of the existing steel studs exterior you have any tips for us??

    • OK…Steel studs are not recommended for residential construction because trimming your basement with steel studs is a pain in the rump! You have to “screw” all your trim and doors in to trim position with steel studs. Use wood studs for the interior walls. You can frame off-of the existing steel exterior wall studs where you need to connect, but then revert to standard wood 2″ x 4″ framing for all of the interior walls.

      Frame the interior walls like I teach you in the framing series Candy.

      I’m here if you have any questions during the framing.


  52. Hey King Eddie,
    2 questions, when you are framing and you are ramsetting the bottom plate to the concrete are you shooting every single cavity or every other cavity? and my second question is are you going to put out a painting video soon? im well rounded in a lot of areas in construction and a big portion of it is in homage to you. But i always like to remain a student of the game. keeps me grounded and i believe one can always learn. so if there are ways of doing something that im use to doing it but i see there is a better way to do it which im sure you have good insight im looking forward to it.
    P.S Just a reminder, please dont forget about my video request about how to determine whether or not a wall is load bearing and all the areas and questions relating to that topic, thanks King

  53. Hey Eddie:
    I purchased your A to Z videos, then my computer crashed. Once I got up and going you helped me with the link to load on my new pc. I’ve purchased a new home that did not have the basement finished and want to do it myself. My biggest issue is the hours I put in at work (12 to 14) then come home, eat and work about 4 hours in basement is making for a very slow process. However, I’m just finishing my bathroom wiring and exhaust fan system wiring using the flex tubing that is insulated and running about 14 feet from fan. I’m doing two rooms with the same exhaust fans because one is my room, I make jerky (18 pounds at a time) and I need to exhaust this room. I have all walls framed including the concrete exterior that is 10″ poured cement. I am lowering my ceilings (what a pain those tall ceilings are) I’m trying to match the same height as upstairs (finished 9 feet). I’m going to have about 18″ of airspace between the ceiling and the floor joists with all my wire, plumbing, cables, etc. my main question here, will condensation in those exhaust flex hoses be a problem? Next, I’m hooked to propane and I have three ‘T’s’ that I’d like to have access to. I want to plumb one outside my French doors so I can have an outside plumbed firebox and one for a propane fireplace. The other will replace the electric stove and convert to LP. Sorry this is so long…is it wise to cover all this with drywall? I don’t want to use suspended ceiling because it would cost an arm and a leg…my basement is 78′ x 28′ with steel posts running in the center of the basement (15 of them). I’m going to work at plumbing a single sink for a wet bar and opted against putting in a partition wall and use a half wall but I don’t know how to run the drain since I’m only installing a half wall, short of busting out concrete, what could I do?

    You’ve been a great help…guys like you make it very easy for those of us ‘wanna be’s’

    • Hey Tim! Wow it looks like you got a nice project going here! Do not worry about condensation in the vent lines…they won’t condensate much if any at all. Use access plumber panels to access your Propane Gas shutoffs, this way you will always have the option to work on these connections. And finally, You will have to bust a little concrete to get your bar drain from point A to point B…it’s just a necessary evil of working in the basement!

      Thanks for stopping by our basement finishing website and for purchasing my Basement training video series. I’m always around if you need to talk about your project.


  54. Eddie,

    Which video has the information on how to cut the newel post and I do see the video on how to install the banisters. Am a missing a video from the series.

  55. Eddie, 2 things:

    First off, completely awesome video series that I purchased from you back in Feb. I’m just about done with everything right before drywall and man you made my life so much easier up to this point with all the tricks I’ve picked up.

    1. I noticed Home Depot now carries a line of sewage pumps made by Everbilt. What is your experience with these? Looks like they don’t carry Ridgid anymore.

    2. One thing I found missing in the framing videos – The under stair closet – how to frame the bottom of the stairs to accept drywall. Think I got it – I just nailed 2×4 across the bottom of the stringers every 16″. Anyway, this might be a suggestion for a small video you could make in the future. Ohh, and make sure Tom is in it…That guy is a pisser! Was a good combination of him making me laugh and learn at the same time. Thanks again man! When I’m done, I’ll post a link here to a small youtube vid of my job.

    • Hey Jon! Thanks for your purchase I’m glad your liking the training!

      1.) They had issues with Ridgid ejectors…they were problematic, had a bad switch in the float! The new pumps are very reliable and we like them a lot…

      2.) Yes just tack-on some 2″ x 4″ either vertically down each outside stringer and then cross-over between them with smaller cross-over pieces of 2″ x 4″ or just do as you suggested every 2′-0″ or so…NOT ROCKET SCIENCE!

      Thanks for commenting Jon. Good luck with the rest of your project, I’m here if you need anything!


  56. Hey king Eddie, quick question do you have or can u soon put out a video pretty much explaining how to determine whether or not a wall is load bearing, the details surrounding that topic etc…?

    • Hey Chris…OK that’s a pretty good topic for a new video. I will work on making a video discussing this issue this month. Thanks for stopping by the website.


  57. Hi Eddie,
    Loving your video’s on basement remodeling. I am in the rough in phase of the electrical work and I have a question on the outlets. In the electric video, John is shown wiring the two hot and two neutral wires to the outlet. I have seen some sources that pigtail the hot and neutral wires and just connect to the bottom screws on the outlet. What is the difference?

    • You could do that but it’s not advised. It’s better to make all of the connections directly on the outlet it’self using either the “stab-lock” connections or directly to the terminal screws! This is a better way of making connection rather than inside nut caps.


    • You could do that but it’s not advised. It’s better to make all of the connections directly on the outlet it’self using either the “stab-lock” connections or directly to the terminal screws. This is a better way of making connections rather than inside nut caps.


  58. Hi Eddie:

    I am trying to put a wall up in my basement and ran into a problem. I have a gas pipe that runes up against the top Joice and the wall what to do?

    • Hey Richard! I would really need to see that…please send me a picture of the problem area. I normally just notch around the gas line or “band-down” the ceiling with 2″ x 4″ to get below the gas line.

      But to be sure I’ll need to see exactly what your up against.


  59. Hi Eddie,
    I loved some of your videos and the works in your basement projects.
    I also have a 30′x60′ basement that I want to remodel. I’m having some trouble designing as to how I want lay out my things. What kind of suggestions or ideas do you have for me.

    • That’s 1800 sq. ft.! That’s a big one Mohammad. You could do just about anything with that size “footprint”. But without knowing “why” you want to finish the basement and what “Zones” your looking for down there I would be batting in the dark giving you my ideas for that space.

      You need to first come up with your wish-list (your vision or dream for the space) and then design it from there!


      • Sign up for my 4 day design class on this page and watch the 4 videos. They will give you some basic design skills to get the ball rolling Mohammad.


  60. How would I go about framing a half wall without a support column on the other end. How do I make it strong and ridged.

    • Hi Glenn… Good question! Well, first, don’t make it too long, the longer the weaker it becomes. I would not go more than 8′-0″ I like to use a 2″ x 6″ wall for these open-ended half walls for added stability.

      Also use liquid nails adhesive on the bottom plate when setting it into position. Double the fasteners in the bottom plate when setting this wall. Make sure you have the corner where your half wall intersects the full wall tied-in extra good with “solid” blocking installed for an extra tight-solid tie-in.

      You can also build a “fake” column on the open-end that ties into the ceiling and floor for ultimate sturdiness. If you do this you can build the wall as long as you want!

      That’s about it Glenn! Good luck with your half walls.


  61. Eddie, corners man, corners. I have set my first wall and have placed first stud back of the 3 1/2 inch line. I’m ready to attach next wall. Do you have anything that shows how this is done?

  62. Hi Eddie, just wanted to let you know I passed all my rough inspections and I couldn’t have done it without your videos. One question, I had to move one exterior wall out to clear piping, and now I have framed around the window. Do I need to do anything on the concrete wall to tie it to the framed area to give the drywallers something to screw into? I’m about 6″ away from the concrete and of course can provide a picture. Thanks as always!


    • Hi Ron! Man it’s awesome you passed all your “rough-in” inspections, I’m proud of you! In answer to your question Ron …No you don’t need anything else for drywallers. They will simply drywall around the window opening you made with the framing. You will go then go back after drywall and build and install your “window-box” extension jamb and finish in off with your choice of window casing to complete the window project.


  63. I want to cut a inside 45 degree angle on a 5 inch base board using a 10″ Miter Saw. However, my 10″ Miter Saw is too small and can’t cut with the base board standing vertically. I am thinking to lay in horizontally and cut with a Miter Angle 35.3 and Bevel Angle 30, will this work? Please advise. What is the best way to cut a 5 inch base board with a 10″ Miter Saw?

    • Lay the 5″ trim in the saw finished side up. Bevel the saw to the 45 degree setting and cut straight don through the piece of trim. DO NOT move the miter angle at all keep it at zero, you are only setting the “Bevel” to 45 degrees to make this cut.

      Hope this helps.


  64. Hi Eddie

    Just wanted to say I have purchased your A to Z Pro series, I really liked it and planning to start one small basement of my friend. I hope you would be there if I needed you any time during the project, as I am a nervous starter, but I know I can do it once I get a start.

    So wish me good luck, Thanks

  65. Thank you for the basement finishing videos. I had never took on such a large project but your videos gave me the confidence to get started and helped me to push through all my questions. I started with a dark empty space and finished with a great basement space that just passed my final county inspection. I created a video to show my friends my journey. Here is the link. Once again, thank you. I could not have done it without your videos.

    • Super looking finished basement you have here! I’m very proud to have been a part of your project and want to thank you one more time for putting your trust in my DIY training system and for ordering the Pro Video A to Z basement training videos!

      Awesome man…Just Awesome!You are a real inspiration to others wanting to finish their own basement to follow! Enjoy your new living space.


  66. Eddie,
    Another question on duct work…
    Doesn’t the flex duct restrict more air as opposed to the hard duct work tubing?

    • No it does not Ken! It’s just as good if installed properly has a much better R-value because it is insulated so you don’t lose as much heat during the transfer from the furnace to the registers!


  67. I could not be more pleased with your basement finishing videos! I singlehanded finished half my basement! All of your instructions are spot on and easy to follow. I think you are pretty much a genius! I didn’t even spend a fourth of what I was quoted by contractors to finish this space! Thank you. Thank you. Thank you!!!

    • Wow Kristin! You are another amazing real-life DIY success story! I’m so happy that it all went well for you during your Basement Project!

      But…I’m really EXCITED to hear about all of the money that finishing this basement yourself saved you!

      Thanks again for your purchase!


  68. I bought the kitchen series,
    Great quality! Amazing details and examples. love it!
    I’ll give a look to all your other videos!

  69. Eddie,
    Awesome videos!!!
    I have a question on how do I know what size duct work to run from HVAC
    unit. My framing is complete and now ready to start on the HVAC part.
    The ones that are running to my upstairs I believe are 6″. Can’t I use what they used for the house for the basement as well? I do know to run them to any windows I have, just not sure what size. I saw in your video on how to install the runs but not how to calculate the size of piping. I am trying to keep from having to pay someone to come out and tell me this but I will if I have to, for every little penny I spend needs to be on the basement.
    Thanks, Ken

    • Thanks for your purchase Ken! I’m glad you are enjoying the training videos so far!

      Use what we use in the HVAC training videos Ken. We use the 6″ Flex for our feeds and either 6″ or 8″ flex for our return air. This will get it done for you!

      No need to call someone to come out to tell you this! Keep that CASH in your pockets brother where it belongs. That’s why you purchased these videos to save time and MONEY!

      Good luck with your basement project Ken, I’m here for you whenever you have questions.


      • Thanks for your response Eddie!
        Have another question…
        I have jacked out the flooring for the bath. When I prepare it to pour concrete, do I put down pea gravel over the dirt then pour the concrete? I noticed that when I broke up the slab, the contractors went right over dirt when they poured the basement. Guess I shouldn’t have expected anything different.

  70. Hi Eddie,

    No problems here.

    I bought your A-Z series and finished by almost 1700sf basement. I installed a full bath and a wet bar with a dishwasher. I needed to utilize almost all of your “tricks” in the framing stage. One thing I would suggest is that the fire blocking information should be included in the framing video, it isn’t mentioned until later. No real problems though I just retrofit the blocking.

    I cut out both of the walls five steps up and that was one of the best ideas. I have a walkout and I didn’t want the space to feel like a basement and it doesn’t. It fells like another level of the house. Your explanation of angles made this a very enjoyable task to complete. The hand rails look perfect. Who knew that I didn’t need high school geometry to complete a task with so many angles. Your description and demonstration was spot on!

    The split jam doors are not only easy to install, but fun! Pex is the way to go and crazy easy. Who wants to sweat copper or cut PVC? Just unroll thread through and clamp. Done!

    I did pull permits (because they told me I had to, I see now that I probably did not need to do this), and at each stage , the inspectors couldn’t believe that a homeowner did the work. He commented that it was better than many of the contractors he sees. He was especially impressed with the framing and soffits.

    I do, and have done, many small home projects, but this by far was the largest. Your videos gave me the knowledge and confidence to tackle finishing my basement and it saved me tens of thousands of dollars.

    Yes, this project was tiring, but more important, it was fun and rewarding. I want to thank you for sharing your years of experience.

    • Warren,

      Awesome! Just Awesome! I so proud of you man…It’s folks like you that make these training videos that we produce such a rewarding experience.

      You are yet another proud owner of a brand new Finished basement that you and your family will enjoy for years to come! I’m honored that you trusted me and gave my basement training videos a try!

      Thanks again for your purchase Warren. Enjoy your new finished basement space!

      Take care.


  71. Hi Eddie, I’m looking to possibly purchase your University set for my newly started basement finish, but I’m in CO, and we have to ‘float’ our walls and doors. Do you have any experience or even videos here?? Thanks

    • And just to clarify, I’m actually fine with the walls and already have several walls up, but I’m struggling with how to frame the interior doors. Thanks

      • We cover framing interior doors in complete detail. We also cover installing the doors in detail in the trim series at the Basement Finishing University.

        Thanks for your interest in my training products Chad.


    • I have videos for that Chad I can send you but they are not at the University, but other than floating wall (which we do not need in PA) it’s all in the University in a lot of explicit detail.
      Thanks for your interest in the Basement Finishing University Chad. I’m here 7 days a week as your personal consultant for your project should you join us!


  72. Hi Eddie,

    I am finishing out my basement using your video series. I am in the electrical phase – all boxes and light cans are in and I’m pulling the wire. My question is how to handle the existing circuit. There is only one 15A circuit installed when the house was built – 5 lights (bare bulb fixtures to round boxes), two three-way switches (at both entry points) and an outlet mounted on the bottom of the panel. Should I incorporate some or all of the circuit or shut it down and wire nut everything together in the boxes and switches?



    • Mark I shut it down at the panel box and tear it all out and start all of my new basement lighting and outlet circuits from scratch! It BEST to just put all new circuits in like I teach you to do in the Electric par 1 & 2 videos!

      I’m here if you need to discuss any of the electric your installing! Thanks for your purchase!


      • Hi Eddie,
        I am about to pull the trigger and start my basement. in response you last comment. Is it ok to keep on using the original lights/wiring for lighting while I am putting in the new wires and then come back and tear it out. Also if you think I should tear it all out first then could we re-use some of the original wiring to save some costs.

        • Keep it until you are ready to drywall Tom and then tear it all out. I never reuse old wire that I have torn-out from any existing electric circuit!

          Pull the trigger man! If you have any questions during this project just ask! I’m always right here if you need to talk it out!



  73. Hi Eddie,

    Thanks for helping me with the framing question earlier. Framing is all done, along with Electrical and plumbing. I have had couple of contractors in fact complement me on my framing work. The electrical inspector was pleased with the way I ran the wires. Thanks for the wonderful videos. I am watching the drywall videos now and realized that the ceiling height is 101 inches. I would not be able to just stack 2 drywalls at 4′ wide as i would be short by 4.5 inches. Does that mean that I will have to lay a 10′ drywall length wise (cut to 100 ”) to avoid 2 joints on the wall. What are my options.



    • Hello Vivek! Awesome man! I’m proud of you for getting this far with all your success!

      To answer you question, Go ahead and install your drywall board horizontal keeping the bottom piece 1/2″ off the floor and the top board pressed-up tight to the ceiling. Then insert a 3/8″ piece of drywall cut to fit in-between the top and bottom pieces of drywall. You will use 3’8″ drywall so this center “ripped” piece is “inset” just a little from the top and bottom pieces. You do this to make it a recessed piece of drywall for easy finishing.

      Once the 3/8″ strip is installed you simply tape both sides of this 3/8″ strip to the top and bottom boards. As you finish the wall your knife sizes will go from 6″ to 10″ to 12″ and so on as normaL, this will fill this 3?8″ section of wall nicely creating a seamless joint at mid-pint of your wall from one of the wall to the other.

      It’s a piece of cake, and I know already that you will not have a problem hanging your walls this way!


  74. Eddie,
    Enjoyed many of your youtube videos and decided to purchase the video set (on sale $99) but when I looked at the University ad I saw that it was advertised at $197 how are these different?

    • Hey Ed! Thanks for your recent purchase of my Pro Video A to Z training product! The Basement Finishing University has about twice as many training videos as well as one-on-one project consulting with me throughout your project if needed.Bottom line… the BFU is a much more in-depth training product and has the project consulting support available 7 days a week. GO HERE TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE BASEMENT FINISHING UNIVERSITY.

      Thanks for your interest in my training products Ed, and good luck with your project! ~Eddie

  75. Hey Eddie, highly appreciating your outstanding pro work description .. helped me a lot to start up with confidence ! .. question please .. you’ve recommended to start framing from one corner .. however, all my basement corner have vertical drain pipes .. any hints on how to frame around these pipes ? Thanks again.

    • Send me a few pictures Hosam and I will take a look and give you a starting point to work from! I need to see it to help you with the layout.


      • Hi Eddie, Thanks for your prompt response !
        just sent you some pictures of 2 corners with vertical pipes. Appreciate it man.
        Regards, Hosam

  76. Love the videos Eddie. Taking it slow ‘n steady – just finishing fire-blocking (challenging but rewarding) and ready to start framing. I’ve got a bunch of hairline cracks in my foundation floor. Should I fill all those before I Hilte the base plates or wait ’till after? I’m worried driving nails into the concrete will undo the considerable work it will take to fill all the cracks in a pretty big (1,500 sft.) project.

    • Hey Cliff Awesome man! Cliff you can fill the spider cracks with a concrete crack caulking before you frame. Don’t worry about the Ramset fasteners creating more spider cracks because they won’t! Your spider cracks most of the time are from slight earth movements beneath the concrete slab that stress the concrete floor creating small insignificant cracks. The Hilte will not harm your concrete floor during construction.

      Good luck with the project my friend.


  77. Oh, man. I keep coming back here to see if you’d addressed my comment and I see it’s been deleted without being addressed. Very disappointing. I purchased the A-Z series (money WELL spent for anyone!) and was heartbroken when I got to the HVAC video where you say flat out don’t bother finishing your basement if you don’t have forced air heating and air conditioning. I was all gung ho to get going on my basement and was severely deflated when I heard that. So, my question: other than installing a new forced air furnace with the send and return air trunks to replace the oil burning furnace that forces hot water through baseboard pipes in my home, is my dream of finishing my basement dead in the water?

    • Hey Jim! Man I didn’t delete your comment, I would never do that! I answer every comment personally as soon as I get them! Sorry about the delay in answering your question! So here’s where I am on this subject:

      You can finish your basement without central a/c, but it’s better to have it. Central a/c and heating helps to move the air and also filter the air quality in your basement. Without it the air quality and the humidity levels are not as good as if you had it…that’s all I meant. But…you certainly can still finish your basement!

      But…if I had a basement without it, I would have a separate zone installed down in my basement by an outside heating and cooling specialist for piece of mind and much more comfortable living environment!

      I have finished many basements without central a/c and heating systems and they have turned-out awesome and everyone who is living in them are still enjoying them!

      Thanks once again for your purchase of my Pro Video A to Z basement finishing training videos! And remember I’m always here if you need to talk about your project! It’s time to put your tool belt on and get this thing started.


      • Eddie, thank you! It says a lot about you that you take the time to answer questions here, in addition to making these amazing videos. Seriously, these videos you’ve made help people like me with moderate skills elevate their DIY game without having to spend years making costly trial and error. You can’t GET any better training than this! It’s like having your own master GC standing there at your side. I appreciate the clarification on the A/C and heating situation in my basement. As I told you in our email exchange, I’m going to take your advice and get a separate zone installed in the basement. Now, here’s where my inner layman emerges: is it possible to add a forced air zone to the existing oil burning furnace which heats our home through baseboard hot water or will I need a whole new furnace set up down there?

  78. Hi Eddie,

    I bought your pro series last year for finishing a portion of my basement and had been going bit slow. Recently I picked up and now am doing the drywall.

    All your videos are great and also want to mention I got all my inspections till dry wall done in the first shot itself. All I had to do was follow your instructions :)

    Well I have a quick question – do you have any video for painting, I know this might be the easiest part, but by now I am getting bit used to of following your videos and missing this one.

    • I do have one but it’s still in the editing stage. I will send you a link to it when it’s finished later next month. Than ks again for your purchase, and I’m really glad that your making such awesome progress with your basement project!


  79. Hello again!

    Eddie, do you have a product that is an amalgamation of video you sell? I’d be interested in that (sans $147 I paid for the finishing set :)


  80. HOLA Eddie
    I am doing a baseman my self do i need permit to do it ,I hire two prof the plumber and the electrician is simple i am going to put a small kitchen and 3 PS washroom ,also not sure what is best cielling tiles or drywall thanks Eddie I LOVE YOUR WORK.

    • If it’s you own home …NO you don’t need a permit to finish your own basement. Some areas try to force you to get one, but legally, they can’t stop you if you do not want to pull a permit.


  81. Hi Eddie, I’m planning a 3/4 bath in the basement. Venting is a huge problem. I was thinking about adding an air admittance valve in the adjoining unfinished portion. Are you planning to cove the topic?

    On the other hand, one of your plumbing videos says that if a fixture is within 6ft of an under-the-concrete tie in, no venting is required. Is that a per-jurisdiction kind of thing or in code?

  82. Eddie!
    I purchased the A-Z pro video series and has helped me move through the framing phase….now looking ahead I have a question on your electrical series. I am planning on using LED (if I can squeeze it into my budget…CFL if I can’t) lighting so the question is…would you still use the cans you have in your video…or go with something else. And would I be able to put additional lights on a circuit (and switch) based on the LED’s lower load requirement?

    And thanks for the great information in the series…been a huge help so far.

    • Hello Pete! Use the recessed lights I show you how to install and forget about the LED lights on the same circuit with the recessed lights! They need to be install on two separate dedicated light circuits. The recessed lights are the way to go…you can dim them if you want, and they flood the basement with a great amount of needed light.


  83. Hey King Eddie,

    I have 2 questions…. i want to know if you can put out a little snippet or video on how to install the shoe moulding or bullnose trim that goes in front of the base trim when there is gaps between the base and floor, if its the same application cope or not etc… also do you plan on putting out another video on framing for example, Angled walls 45 degree etc, curved walls i know these may be more sophisticated applications, however it would be great in my opinion to learn these things and for any homeowner who may want more then straight shots in their home…. P.s i would love to see how the job came out that you did when you taught us how to frame our basement in the pro vids.
    Thanks king

    • Hey Chris what’s up! I actually do not have a shoe molding video sequence to show you, but I will shoot one and add it to the video packages I offer. It’s simple really… just use your 18 gauge trim gun with 1″ trim nails and shoot right into the center of the shoe molding on a 45 degree angle and this will pin the trim to the base of your base trim nicely!

      I might have some footage of that basement in it’s finished state Chris I’ll check on that for you and if I find some finished footage I’ll post it here on the website for you.

      Thanks for your recent purchase and for being one on my valued subscribers!


  84. Hi Ed,
    I am laying my first wall out and happen to land over a control joint which I am sure you are aware of, flares up at the seam. I am not sure how to measure my studs when the plates see saw over the joint. I measured like you said in your video and still had to use the sledge to knock it in place.
    Is there a better solution to measuring over these control joints because I have a lot of them? By the way, I figure they flare up approx. 1/2″ in height to rest of the slab.
    Thanks Ed

  85. I’ve watched some of your utube videos and would like my husband and I to try a basement project. We have a two story 2500 sq foot home with a unfinished basement roughly 1,000 sq foot i guess. What’s a ballpark price that this will cost us to keep things pretty simple?

  86. I just finished viewing the 4 framing videos and have a question. We have the metal support columns that we want to bury in the walls. They seem to be 1/8″ wider than a 2×4. How do you enclose them in the walls? I also want to have a corner of my wall go around one of these columns and have it buried in the wall, any special instruction for doing that?

    Thanks in advance


  87. Eddie,
    I purchased the A-Z video series and I’m eager to start my project in the spring, however, 2 issues have me perplexed.
    1. I own a older home and there’s a bit of sagging in some ceiling joists. How do I address this so I achieve a flat, leveled ceiling for drywall?
    2. My project has a bump out that has 45 degree inside & outside corners (picther a bay window). I imagine there will be a V shaped gap where the outside corner studs meet. How is this addressed so the drywallers are happy?

  88. Hi Eddie,
    Just recently purchased you pro series videos . Great stuff.
    Quick question… As I was scaning the series, I was wondering where to start, when I received a bonus e-mail detailling the sequence of every step.
    I don’t recall seing the flooring. I having intentions to put in a sub floor with a wood floor over it. Should I install the sub floor prior all the framing?
    I would have extra questions on the matter if there is another way of corresponding.

    • I would not do the wood sub-floor. Waste of time and money. But…if I were going to do this I would build the sub-floor first and then frame my new wall on top of the sub-floor.

  89. Hi Eddie,
    what type of nails do you use with your air framing nailer for basement framing?
    (full head or clipped head, diameter size and length, coating). I didn’t see anything mentioned in your framing video. Thanks!

    • I use “clipped-head” 3 1/4″ regular old framing nails. You use clipped-head nails if you have a “clipped-head” framing nailer because they will only shoot clipped-head nails.

      If your framing gun is not a clipped-head nailer you would purchase regular 3 1/4″ “round-head” framing nails for your framing gun instead. I usually am buying a 25 pound contractor box of framing nails per basement I remodel.


  90. Eddie,
    This question was asked in Dec and I haven’t seen a reply on it and it is a very good question.
    “My question is two part. About the ramset gun, do you use 2.5″ or 3″ pins? I am having a harder time finding any ramset pins now without a washer attached as well. Also I believe you are using the .22 cal. Are you using the yellow powder shots?”
    Thanks Ken

    • Hello Ken! OK We only use the 2 1/2″ Ramset fasteners. Washers are ok if you can’t find them without the washers. The ones without washers tend to “sink” a little deeper than the one’s with washers!

      As far as the “load” goes we prefer to use the #4 Yellow load in our Ramset gun as they pack a bigger “punch” than the “green or the “brown” load does!

      Hope this helps Ken. Good luck with your basement project. I’m here if you need to talk.


  91. Eddie – I like to consider myself pretty handy but decided today to buy your pro series – so far, money well spent! So many great ideas that I would have never thought of. Question for you – I pretty much have my layout figured out. I have one problem area. Approx 30″ from the side of the stairwell wall is a quad 2×10 beam with 3 columns spaced 60″ apart running parallel to the stairwell wall. I was going to use your idea of cutting back the stair wall to stair 5 to open up the bottom of the stairs but my belief is that this beam with the columns only 30″ away will really ruin the look ( half walls wont work here.) My other option was to box this area in and make it a closet. Your thoughts? Any ideas? Thanks man – appreciate it!

    • Hi Jon! I think I understand what your trying to describe here. But…do me favor, and send me a few Pictures so I can be extra sure of the project before I give you my final answer on what you should do!

      Thanks for the purchase Jon! I’m always here if you have additional questions about your project as well.


  92. Hi Eddie,
    With the split jamb doors, are the casing trim around the door come attached with the door? How would I go about changing the trim around the door to match the trims I’m using for windows if I’m using split jamb doors?
    I really enjoy watching your videos. Thanks.

    • Hey Ken! I would just order the split jamb doors with the casing you prefer already attached from the supplier! It’s much easier this way.



  93. Hey King Eddie, Professor…

    I was watching my bathremodeluniv series and my plan in the spring time is to send my mom on a vaca for like a week and tear out the bathroom and remodel it so by the time she comes back she is in for a big surprise. My question to you is “Floor Overs”. I noticed you verbally touched on it for a sec in one of the videos but didnt catch video footage. What exactly is the proper procedure after determining whether or not the existing floor is good enough to tile over? Are you putting hardy backer bord over the existing floor againg and tiling over that or are you taking your 1/4” trowel and spreading thinset over the existing tile floor? thanks prof!

    • Class is in session…lol! OK A floor-over can ONLY happen over another tile floor. And the old tile floor must be in fairly good condition as well! What I mean is…The old tile floor will be the “base” for the new floor. So, it better be a “solid old tile floor” with no loose tiles anywhere!

      If the old tile is down good, you can then spread your thinset right over the old floor and tile right over-top of the old floor quick and easy!


      Your new floors integrity is only as good as the old tile floor’s stability. Hope this helps.


      • thanks prof, one more quest…. the floor is solid there are absolutely no loose tiles anywhere however, the tile are not perfectly leveled. as I’m looking closely, about 2 or 3 tiles is about a strong 16th higher then the rest of the tiles and i believe the might be one thats about a shy 8th. And I’m looking to put down 2×2′s with the mesh backing similar to the the ones u put down. knowing this , would you tile over it or would you rip out tile floor put down the backerboard and start clean slate?

  94. Hi Eddie,
    Great stuff you have going. Awesome info and well put together.
    I’m just about ready to start my basement project but hesitating on where to start. As built by the contractor(2010), the exterior walls are up all around with dry wall, no joints. My concerns are, the present insulation doesn’t seem adequate (walls and between the ceiling joists. Also, I think redoing the electrical will be necessary as I plan on having interior walls. And, present perimeter walls are studded at 24in with 2 X 3.
    Should I tear everything down and start from scratch?
    Thank you, I appreciate your opinion.

    • Hey Tony! Man I would Demo the whole thing and start from scratch and do everything right right out of the gate!

      24″ O.C. is wrong, you need 16″ on center so drywall and trim do not start warping. You need to insulate properly as well. In the long run Tony you will come out way ahead!

      Thanks for stopping by our basement site! The Pro Video A to Z series Tony will get you where you need to go!


  95. Eddie,
    I really enjoy watching your videos on YouTube and I am going to buy your video series. Have a question for you:
    I need to do the rough-in drains for the bathroom (and possibly wet bar)in my basement, do you show in your videos the jack hammering of the concrete floor and connecting the piping into the main house drain line? Also filling it back in? I am very nervous about doing this, it seems to be a big job that if not done correctly I can really make a serious mess of things.

  96. Hello Eddie,
    I purchased the A-Z videos a few days ago. I watched the two plumbing & sewage videos. They were very detailed regarding the drain lines, but I still dont understand the venting requirements with much confidence. Do you circle back to completeing the venting system in any of the other plumbing videos?

    My basement is roughed in. The shower vent and sink drain come up out of the floor about 18″ off my exterior wall. I am hoping not to loose the 18″ and I’m wondering if I can incorporate the vents inside the bathroom somehow (maybe deviding walls/). Any videos that help design a bathroom around existing roughed in plumbing?

    • Hey Todd! Man you got it made if you have the pre-existing plumbing in the floor already to go and in the right locations. You need to vent the sink and the shower and toilet. This is done by bringing the 2″ vent-line for each fixture up inside the new 2″ x 4″ walls you will be building and then tying into either an existing vent line pre plumbed by the builder or taking a new 2″ vent line up through the new wall and then routing that 2″ vent line through the basement wall and up the outside of your home.

      The other option is Studor Vents (made by Oatey) and installing Studor vents on at least the sink and the shower/tub fixtures. I can get you information on this Studor venting if that’s what you need to do. But hopefully there is a pre-existing vent line somewhere in your basement that you can “Tap” into easily.

      Email me and we can talk…


  97. Sorry if this posts twice, my computer is going wonky.

    Along my two longest walls in the basement are the drainpipes for the upstairs. The first wall has a 4 inch pvc pipe that drains the kitchen it’s almost dead center in the wall. I don’t want to do a little jaunt out in the wall at this point if I can help it since it would be the main wall in the entertainment area for the basement.

    The second wall has the 6 inch pvc main coming out of the floor and then about halfway up the wall, it y-s in three parts to go to the master bathroom and the guest bathroom.

    Is it okay to build the walls for these two areas 7 to 8 inches off the concrete walls? These walls would be nailed into the floor joists above. If it okay….what do I do with all that space behind the wall? Just insulate it? (of course leaving an access to get to the cleanouts)

    Had been watching the videos on youtube. Convinced my husband that the framing was something we could do, bought the videos last night after hitting the store for lumber and tools….already have my first wall up. ow for the rest of them!

    Thanks, these videos are great, and much easier to understand than the DYI books I also bought.

  98. My question is , I have a two long walls walls, where there are pvc drain pipes along the walls, almost right in the middle of each. One of the walls is the 4 inch drain pipe for the kitchen, and it runs down almost right on the middle of my wall. To clear the cleanout cap I would need to build the wall out 7 inches. Is it okay to build this wall 7 inches from the concrete? This wall would be nailed into the floor joists. And if it is okay, what I I do about all that space back there?

    I have the same issue with the second wall, but I’d have to build it out 8 inches from the concrete wall (6-inch pipes, there is a main trunk and three branches from going to the upstairs master bath and the guest bath) The total upper area of the pipe run takes up about 80% of the wall space.


  99. I’ve enjoyed your videos on YouTube and am considering buying your series. I’m an aspiring diy’er with shiny new tools from Christmas.

    Do you have any videos showing how to frame floating basement walls? Where I live, code requires that basement walls are floated due to expansive soils. There is very little in the way of step by step instructions for how to do this. For what it’s worth, I’d plan to float the walls with the gap on bottom so it could be covered by baseboard trim and more soundproof on top. It seems for the most part the process could be the same as a non floating wall, except you build a shorter wall and set it up on the base with temporary shims to create the gap.

    Anyway, just curious if you have a video on how to do this.

    • Hey Zack! OK…No we do not cover this floating wall in our framing series! This is because we film all of our training videos in Pennsylvania and “floating wall construction” is not a code requirement here in PA!
      I do have a video that should give you what you are looking for and will send you the link to it if you just email me at

      Other than the floating walls the rest of the basement training should be all you need to complete your entire basement project from A to Z.

      Thanks for your interest in my DIY training videos Zack. I’m always available if you have any questions about your basement project. Good luck with those shinny new tools!

      Happy Holidays.


  100. Eddie,
    Bought the videos Christmas night and am getting excited after watching the framing videos 2x each. 2 questions:

    1. My builder already insulated the walls with batting covered w/plastic nailed into the concrete walls so it’s “puffy.” It seems like you leave a 1″ gap between exterior wall plates and the concrete wall – is that enough clearance for my “puffy” walls or should I add an inch gap? Would that be a problem when I trim my windows?

    2. You recommended laying any “humped” framing studs with the hump face up. Am I correct that in that case the “bow/hump” would then face into the room once the wall is stood up? Just want to make sure I’m understanding it right. I’m nervous about the quality of the lumber at my local Home Depot and don’t trust my eye (yet) to weed out “bad” studs while in the store.


    • Hello Cliff! Thanks for your recent purchase of the basement finishing training product! OK…here’s the skinny:

      1.) That is an insulated “wall wrap” insulation Blanket that the builder install over your concrete walls. What I do when I’m working with this product is I come out 5 1/2″ instead of 4 1/2″ from the concrete wall when snapping my wall lines. This will give you a little breathing room between the backside of your new framed walls and the insulation wrap. NO…this won’t mess up trimming-out your windows, it will only increase the depth of your window extension jambs you will be building by 1″.

      2.) That is correct with the humps or “back” as they are sometimes called. Home Depot has a good and better grade 2″ x 4″ available. I usually use the better which is the kiln-dried Fir product. These 2″ x 4″‘s are much straighter as a whole and do not twist as much as the regular spruce 2″ x 4″‘s.

      Hope this helps Cliff. Your going to do GREAT and your basement is going to be FANTASTIC buddy!

      Take care. Happy Holidays!


  101. Great site! Loving the vids and definitely going to purchase the course when I start things up.

    I had a quick question: I tend to take my time with things due to my hectic schedule and family commitments. Should I have any concerns with taking my time to frame my basement as I would be leaving all my studs in the basement sitting for an extended amount of time?

    I was told that if I don’t start framing the basement as soon as I bring the wood in, it will start to warp. I was also told that the same would happen if I took extended breaks between framing one section and another a week after.

    Can you please enlighten me?



    • If you have damp basement you should get your HVAC system feed ducts installed first to get real dry circulating air moving in the basement! This reduce the humidity levels and keep your lumber from twisting. If you think you will have the walls all framed within a month you will be ok and should not worry at all about your lumber twisting. If it’s going to take you 6 months just to frame then I would just purchase maybe 100 2″ x 4″‘s at a time use them all up 1st and then go back for another 100 or so.

      The moving filtered dry air will keep your building materials safe from most twisting and warping that can occur if you are moving at a snails pace Josh.

      Good luck with this project. I am here to answer any question that you may have during your project.


  102. Eddie,
    Question on downloading your videos to my hard drive…
    If I have to replace my computer or my hard drive goes out,
    do you re- download another copy to my new computer/hard drive
    without me having to pay twice for it?
    Thanks Ken
    PS….Love your work Eddie!!!!

    • Yes that is correct Ken! Any tech issues or computer crashes will always be quickly resolved personally by me the same day you contact me with any issue.


  103. Hi Eddie,
    My question is two part. About the ramset gun, do you use 2.5″ or 3″ pins? I am having a harder time finding any ramset pins now without a washer attached as well. Also I believe you are using the .22 cal. Are you using the yellow powder shots?
    Thanks Frank

    • Hello Frank! OK We only use the 2 1/2″ Ramset fasteners. Washers are ok if you can’t find them without the washers. The ones without washers tend to “sink” a little deeper than the one’s with washers!

      As far as the “load” goes we prefer to use the #4 Yellow load in our Ramset gun as they pack a bigger “punch” than the “green or the “brown” load does!

      Hope this helps Ken. Good luck with your basement project. I’m here if you need to talk.


  104. Eddie,

    Does your framing videos show you how to frame daylight window basements. Half of the basement wall from top to bottom is cement, the other half is wood/frame. I can’t seem to find much information about it–I live in Michigan–it may be unique to my area?

    Looking forward to your answer

    • Just build your framed wall as high as the concrete portion of the wall and use the top half as it is framed from the builder. Then…drywall both walls and when finished “cap” the bottom wall that sticks out farther with a 1″ x 6″ wood cap and trim-out the cap with colonial window and door casing to polish it off.

      This works out real nice doing it this way because it gives you a nice “wooden” ledge that you can put nick-knacks on like pictures, drinks, whatever! I hope you understand what I’m saying here. If you don’t email me and I’ll help you out with this unique framing project.


  105. Hey Chris!
    Double plates are used for locking the walls on the 1st and second floor together as well as for adding needed strength for thing like floor joists and ceiling rafters that will add a load atop these walls. In other words you are building “load bearing walls” in these instances.

    In the basement we are not building “load bearing walls” we are building instead curtain walls(non-load-bearing walls). So there is no need or code specifying the need to build “double plated” walls in the basement environment. So…Forget about it! You don’t need to build any of them for your project.

    Now… one instance where you might need to build them is if you were to remove a support column or a load bearing masonry or concrete wall you would then need to build a “load bearing wall” back underneath the floor joists to carry that same load down to a new footer system at basement floor level…then you need “double plates! But I really doubt you would be attempting this feat! And if you are…please call in a structural engineer to look over your plans!

    Hope this helps.


  106. Hey King Eddie i notice in a lot of homes, the framed walls have top plates that are doubled. (floor joist- 2 top plates) A) what is that about? B) is it a requirement? /can we simply just do the framing the way you do it (floor joist-top plate- studs- bottom plate)

    • No need to double top plates in basement! Basement walls are hardly ever “load bearing” walls so there is no need to double up these top plates. There is no building code that requires this in a basement unless the basement walls are load-bearing (walls that support a load being placed on them from a structure being built above them).

      Doubling plates is only done on the 1st and 2nd floor framing of your typical wood stud residential home framing projects where it is code and it must be done…but not in basements.

      Hope this helps.


  107. Great videos!

    I recently came upon your YouTube videos and from there ended up purchasing a set of your videos during your “Basement Video Blow-Out Sale” event. I am getting ready to redesign and finish my basement and had a few questions for you. FYI… I am not a carpenter, I work in finance but with the knowledge sharing you have provided in your video, I feel that I can do this as my side/ after work and on the weekend project.

    To my question, I know you recommend building a ladder and I would really like to start of by doing that but I am following the look of the only finished room in my basement currently. I am struggling with trying to develop a ladder for a multi-tiered try ceiling look. The current finished room displays 3 layers of ceiling… That drop 14″ from the ceiling. I have pictures if you think that could help you understand what I am trying to do.

    Look forward to reading your response to this. My question is where and how should I start. I have a few ideas but would love to get your expert opinion before I proceed.

    • Hello Wesley! 3 tier soffits are an advanced framing project! I would suggest keeping it a simple 1 stage soffit for your first project! I’m not saying that you can’t do this by yourself, It’s just a really tough framing project for a total beginner to attempt with no framing experience at all. Thanks again for your purchase Wesley! As for you and the rest of my students I’m always just an email away if you have any additional questions about your basement project!


  108. Follow up window framing one more time. I now realize that the basement window and basement door, which are next to each other are framed by the builder, there is a header on the top of the window and the door. The window is bordered by a one 2*4 PT stud and the door has 2 2*4 PT stud border. When framing the concrete wall around the door and the window, do I frame the wall to the header and stop there. If I frame the wall to the edge of the concrete, I would not have enough space to put the trims. I noticed on the basement trim video, where you showed the window trim book casing, that the framing was offset by 6 to 7 inches from the edge of the window.

    Is it possible for me to send you a picture of the door and window so that I do not end up framing it incorrectly.


  109. Hi Eddie,

    Followup question on framing the window as I did not explain the question clearly earlier. If the window in the basement is framed with 2 PT studs in the concrete opening, then am I framing to the concrete wall of the inside edge of the innermost PT stud. In the framing video example, you framed the window to the concrete edge as there were to PT studs between the window and the concrete. Do I understand it correctly.



    • Hello Vivek!
      Yes that is correct the inner-most PT framing mounted inside the concrete cut-out will determine your new basement framed wall window opening position framing!


  110. Live in New England and have finished a basement before. Disaster! Block walls have since been replaced with 10″ poured walls at a cost of 35K. Purchased you video set and would like to try again. Little leery of sheetrock and carpet. Basement seems dry but a little mildew has cropped up. Any suggestions to avoid problems? Foam Insulation? Vapor barriers? Dehumidifiers?

    • Your new 10″ poured walls will NEVER leak so you can rule out future moisture problems almost 100% as long as you have a perimeter water drain that empties into a functioning sump pump pit. You will not need a moisture barrier with these concrete walls.

      What you will need will be moving and filtered air which is the secret to keeping any basement dry and mildew free. You will need to tap into your homes existing HVAC feed and return trunks and install feeds and air returns for all of the finished space in your new finished basement. You will also want to install several ceiling fans to aid in the moving of the air, this will help the central HVAC system do it’s job more efficiently.

      I cover all of this in complete detail in my Basement HVAC Installation Series and my Basement Insulation training videos. You can find both at the Basement Finishing Store.


  111. Hi Eddie,

    Thanks for you reply on the fire blocking question. I have another question for you on the framing of the basement window. The training video shows to frame the window at the edge of the concrete to create a picture frame. However, the drywall videos do not show how to drywall around a window. ( unless i missed it). How would I do that. Thanks for the videos.

    • We don’t drywall windows! We trim them like I show you in the basement exterior windows and door trim video training series with wooden extension jambs and picture frame them with new wood window and door casing.

      . Drywalling basement window “returns” is a poor way to trim-out your basement windows. It’s a little “cheezy” in my opinion.


  112. Hey Eddie,

    I’ve gotten a ton out of the video set bought back in August…so far I’ve knocked out the framing, electrical, and HVAC and now I’m in the middle of plumbing the bathroom. I note that you didn’t install an exhaust fan in the videos (I’m guessing it’s not required in your region like it is in central Iowa where I am). Any insights on how I might proceed? Punch a hole through a rim joist like online sites suggest, or is there something I might be able to tie into that I’m not immediately aware of? Thanks again for making these videos available…I know it was probably a gamble selling the trade secrets to people like me that don’t want to sub it out, but a hands-on step-by-step video set is so much better than any set of books or cobbled together web sites currently available. You nailed it through and through.



    • Hey Dorrance! Glad the videos you purchased are working for ya brother! We do have to install these exhaust fans , I just never got around to shooting our bath fan installation for whatever reason…?

      Yeah punch a hole in the rim joist with a 4 1/4″ hole saw and just use a standard dryer vent exhaust hood kit from any hardware store to connect to a piece of flex exhaust tubing and you got it!

      Thanks again for your purchase my friend! I’m here if you need to talk it out!


  113. Eddie,
    I plan to frame my basement laundry room, but have a problem. On one wall, there is a 1 & 1/2″ water pipe less than 1″ from the concrete wall hanging below the joists, and running parallel to the wall. Then right next to the pipe and running right along side it is a furnace duct. I plan on building a soffit to cover all this, but how would frame this wall since there is no way to attach it to the joists with the pipe and ductwork in the way? By the way, the duct extends out about 1 & 1/2 feet from the cement block wall. Thanks Eddie

    • OK…got ya here! Well you will need to do what’s called “block nailing” to secure your new wall nice and sturdy. Man I cove this in complete details in my Basement Framing Series if your interested. Once you get that wall nice and plumb and secure you can then build your soffit off that wall and wrap the duct-work inside it and you done! Block nailing is easy, requires a Ramset pin gun to secure the blocks of wood that will hold the new wall in permanent position!

      Hope this helps.


  114. How do I install fire blocking in areas that are considered obstacles in the framing videos. There is no 2*4 installed in the unfinished areas that are hidden with a door ( example hiding the water meter ). The insulation video covers the fire blocking very briefly. More details are needed to do this part correctly.

    Please advice.

    • OK inside these “unfinished” space like inside the water meter closet or inside an electrical meter closet…and so on… you have to close-off the walls on each side of the door so no drafts can get to the unfinished closet areas. This must be done from floor to ceiling on each of these unfinished closets. The inside of the closet by it’self, is considered unfinished storage space and does not have to be “blocked” but the finished space walls to the right and left inside these unfinished closets need to be fire blocked from the concrete wall to the backside of the wall studs from floor to ceiling. I hope this makes sense to you. If in doubt I always ask the local code inspector to point-out exactly what he expects to see before the fire blocking inspection!


  115. Hi Eddie,
    I’m not sure if my email is making it to your or not but I’ve left a couple messages. Can you point me in the right direction for coating the ceiling of the basement? Either brush stipple technique or knockdown? I’ve watched the last of the drywall finishing and didn’t see anything. Is there another video to purchase or am I missing something?
    Thanks for the feedback.

    • Hey Frank! I’m sorry but we do not apply any “textured” finishes on our ceilings. We finish the drywall flat and paint-ready. These are brand new drywall ceilings, so we are just painting the ceiling as our finished product.

      Texturing ceilings are not part of the Drywall Video Series because texturing technically is not part of the hanging and finishing drywall process. We may make a video in the future that covers this topic! Thanks for visiting our website Frank…I’m always around if you have any questions about your basement finishing project.


  116. Hi Edde,

    I purchased the A-Z video series at a rediculously low price @ the end of October, thank you.
    I see now that you have the BFU Series available. What’s the differnce? Should I purchase the BFU Series? Can I get a discount for ugrading to the BFU Series since I just purchased the A-Z series?

    Looking forward to getting started!


    • The difference is The Basement Finishing University has twice as much training as the Pro Video A to Z product.

      The Basement Finishing University(BFU) has everything the Pro Video A to Z does, which is the 27 basement training videos. But it goes a lot deeper into the entire project at the Basement Finishing University(BFU).

      Here is what the BFU has that the Pro Video A to Z does not:

      1.) How to Design the basement and create a “working floor plan” (7 hours of training)
      2.) Basement finishing MindMap
      3.) 48 How-to tool videos that teach you what tool you need and demonstrate how they are used during the project.
      4.) 15 Bonus training Idea videos (6 Hours of additional videos)
      5.) Resources tab and 24 hour support
      6.) Private student community forum where you can get your questions answered personally by me 7 days a week.

      That’s a lot more at the BFU, it’s a very good value!

      Hope this helps.

      I’m always around if you have any questions about your project, just shoot me an email!

      Take care.


  117. Hey King Eddie!
    I kept watching the Framing video over and over and i noticed you verbally touched on it for a sec but didn’t demonstrate how to position your studs on an outside corner. Can u take the time now to clear that up for me? Thanks King

    • Cont…
      I know that for the inside corner on the end it’s the 2×4 Flat ways 1st, then butt up against it in the regular stud position is another stud.

    • Outside corners are the easiest! Just butt the two walls together and nail from bottom to top all along the outside corner . You really do not have any special positions for the studs on outside corners…just butt and nail!


    • Outside corners are the easiest! Just butt the two walls together and nail from bottom to top all along the outside corner . You really do not have any special positions for the studs on outside corners…just butt and nail!


  118. Hi Eddie!

    One more soffit question. When I’m laying out for the rungs on the ladder is the 1st one at 24″ or at 23 1/4″ like when you’re laying out a wall? Don’t want the drywallers swearing at me when they show up. Thanks and have a great weekend!


    • 23 1/4″ would be correct Ron! Yeah buddy keep them drywallers happy at all times if possible! Thanks for stopping by the basement finishing training website my brother!


  119. Hello Eddie,

    Not sure where my last post went… My question was, do your videos include how to break the concrete to move the rough-in plumbing?
    Also, I am thinking of a thankless water heater (gas), do you have any recommendations?


    • Yes in explicit details Hillar! Everything about installing drain lines under the concrete floor for a basement bathroom are covered in complete detail from A to Z!


  120. Hi again Eddie!

    Let’s talk about soffit building when you’re only building 1 ladder and using the wall on the other side.

    My plan is if the ladder height is x should I shoot a 2×4 across the studs at x (set up) and toenail the crossover pieces OR shoot a 2×4 across the studs at x minus 1 1/2″ and shoot the crossover pieces into the bottom? Does it matter?

    All Hail King Eddie!

    • Build the ladder. Then level over to the wall you want to connect too at two points (one on each side of the soffit ladder).

      Then snap a chalk line between the two level points, and then fasten a 2″ x 4″ to the chalk line. Then just cut some connector pieces of 2″ x 4″ and connect these cross-over pieces from the soffit ladder to the new 2″ x 4″ you attached and you done!

      Hope this made sense Ron.


  121. Hey Eddie,

    Just purchased the Bathroom Remodel University through Paypal. Received receipt for payment from Paypal and DIY Digital Info but no link was provided for video download. Tried calling the number listed on e-mail receipt but unable to get through or leave a message. Eager to get started. Thanks!


    • Hello Chris! All taken care of…your good to go. I have sent you your user name and password that’s get’s you into the Bathroom Remodel University instantly!

      Thanks again for your purchase into my brand new bathroom Remodel University! I’m always available to answer questions about your Bathroom Chris!


  122. Eddie great videos I have learned a lot! This is my second basement I have finished in my houses and I wish I watched these before. I do have one HVAC question. The builder put 2 air vents in the basement on the main air run, but when I box around them I will loose them, how do I permanently seal them so I can run new? I don’t think you covered this in the video.
    Thanks again!!

    • DON’T USE EITHER ONE OF THESE!!!!! That is a BIG NO NO in the HVAC world!~ I know a lot of builders that just stick a damper control like these two you have on the bottom side of the feed trunk and then open them to let A/C and Heating seep into the basement…But this is WRONG!

      You never “tap” your HVAC from the bottom of a trunk…You tap from either the side or most preferably from the top of the feed trunk. The reason…cutting a hole in the bottom of a duct trunk takes the “PUSH” out of the system. The “PUSH” basically is the amount of pressure it take the main unit in the basement to “PUSH” the A/c and Heating to the first and 2nd floors of your home. When you cut vents into the bottom of the feed truck you retard this very important aspect of how you central HVAC system was designed to operate at maximum capacity.

      So…Close them off permanently and then re-do them coming out of either the side or the top of your feed trunk. I show exactly how to do this in the HVAC training videos located at the Basement Finishing Store!

      Hope this helps. Good luck with your basement project.


      • Great go it, how should I permanently close them off so those openings are sealed shut? I did watch the HVAC video and I totally understand what your saying. Thanks for the help!

        • Use a piece of foam duct-board cut to the size of the hole in the existing duct-work after you remove the contractors grate cover. Tape this piece of Duct-foam in place using “metal” duct-tape not regular duct-tape! You can also use a piece of 1″ or 3/4″ Styrofoam board cut to fit as well. Seal-em-up and forget em! Any other questions let me know brother.


  123. Hi Eddie, me and my roommate have been working on finishing her basement. Her ex husband had previously started the project twenty years ago! The problem with this is he took short cuts in every way he could, therefore doing things wrong and making the job harder for us! For instance he didn’t frame the exterior walls he simply used hard as nails and attached paneling! And then framed the interior walls (very in evenly) I have done everything I could to try and work with the existing walls and keep running into problems! My biggest problem at the moment is the bathroom! The bolts for the toilet are set in the cement floor, one broke off and I have no experience in any kind of construction, your videoed are what helped me with the little progress I have made! So how do I fix the bolt issue and do I need a certain kind of flange that inserts into the floor pipe for the toilet? Please help me I am going insane with this extremely large and thanks to someone thinking they know it all a very hard project!!! Ill be back with many more questions and when I can afford it I plan to buy the entire video package! Thank you for your great instruction videos, I’ve told everyone I know and even people I don’t know at Home Depot and lowes!! :)

    • Wow! Sounds like Butcher job for sure! Hey do me a favor…if you can, send me a few photos of what the toilet flange and bolt setup looks like so I can give a correct diagnosis for this project. Thanks for checking out our website.

      I am always here for you to bounce questions off of! My email is, send the picture there if you can. Good luck with your basement project.

      Take care Crystal!


  124. Hi Eddie,
    I purchased your A-Z series and they are worth every penny.
    I just finished the tape-coat on my drywall and I think I may end up with some air bubbles. Is there anything I can do about it at this point, before I start the 2nd coat of mud?

  125. Eddie, I got my first wall up today after watching and rewatching your framing videos. Looks like a wall, so I guess that makes you a great teacher. Of course everyone has an opinion on what I should and shouldn’t be doing and I shut them down with “Master Builder Eddie Case says….” Glad I purchased your videos!

    • Awesome man! Thanks for the positive vote Ron! Now just keep it going in a straight-line and before you know it the Framing will be 100% and you’ll be onto the mechanical s brother!
      Thanks for your purchase and remember I’m always here if you need any questions answered about the project! Take care.


      • Thanks Eddie!

        Ready for the bad news? In the part of Colorado I live in they require a floating wall for basements :-( Maybe something to discuss in your next video. At least I found out before I only got the one wall up. PT bottom plate 1.5″ gap then the 2×4 wall secured by a 40d nail every 24″ to the PT board. Kind of a PITA but I’ll survive. You’re still the Basement King!


        • That is one aspect we do not have to deal with on the east coast states is the “floating wall”. Never had one to film because of this fact…

          If you get a chance to film yours being built or if anyone out there could film this for me I will use it in my product a.s.a.p.! Could really use a good segment on this “floating wall” installation! If ya got it email me @ and I’ll arrange to get it from whomever!

  126. Hey Eddie, quick question…. i watch your videos all the time and i truly appreciate you doing what you are doing. I know the basement is your focal point , but in principle everything you’re teaching home owners pretty much applies to any level of the house right? Framing is framing, trimming is trimming Etc…. As a young up and coming home improvement contractor i’ve been in construction for 4 years. I’m about to get incorporated and get my HIC license. When i purchased your pro finishing videos, you took everything i knew + more and evolved it. a lot of contractors are mad bc im taking there jobs lol. Jokes. But i truly want to inquire about a possibility of you putting a video package or seminar or something to help to young and upcoming contractors come up in this field, its another market that needs guidance from a top guy like yourself. Up here in NYC a lot of contractors are kind of greedy with knowledge about the business etc. and its crazy because the youth is coming behind. you always should want to leave info behind for the next generation. So Its just an inquire and in idea and i truly hope that you give it some thought because you’re a great contractor and you’re doing GREAT THINGS! i Hope to here from you. Thanks for everything

    • Hey Chris! Wow you are turning into quite the tradesman my friend! I am working on a more advanced course specifically geared for part time and full time contractors, a.lot more on the tech-side and a bunch on the “business-side” of contracting as well. When I get it to market I will notify you and the other folks who have asked me similar questions over the last few months. I also have a Bathroom and a Kitchen training series of Videos due out this year that will help DIY Homeowners with their Bathrooms and Kitchens remodel projects, both kick some serious D.I.Y. Butt!

      Thanks for the kind words. I am always here for anyone who needs questions answered about their home improvement projects. Glad to help out my fellow contractor brothers and sisters!


  127. Hi Eddie,

    Your video is great! I’m just trying to watch all of them. I have two questions so far.

    1. Exterior wall is currently framed and insulated by builder, should I frame again beside current framing? Or I just use it.
    2. Centre vacuum system is setup by builder and the pipe is just below the joists. how are you gonna do with it ? Can I extend the pipe to somewhere else? like doing plumbing?

    Thank you for your help!


    • Hi Jim!

      1.) Just use the framing from the builder if it’s well insulated and 16″ on center framing!
      2.) You can either re-route the central vac line or band-down the ceiling as I show you in the framing video series and have the vac lines up inside the banding!

      Thanks for stopping by our Basement Finishing Website Jim!


  128. Hi Eddie,

    I just purchased your videos and so far they are awesome. I didn’t realize how much I didn’t know. Do any of the videos cover fire blocking? My township requires it and I’m not 100% certain how to do that.


    • Hey Mike! Yes I cover fire blocking in the Insulation videos. Thanks for the kind words my friend and for stopping by my basement finishing training videos website!

      Take care

  129. Hi Eddie,
    I love your videos and I am planning to finish my basement.
    I wanted to know how much my property tax would go up if I add a 1,000 square feet by finishing my basement. I know that every municipality is different but just a rough estimate, what kind of percentage of my property tax would go up?
    Thank you very much,

    • KP it really depends where you live! Some areas of the country do not consider the finished basement additional “living space” in the sq.ft. calculations when they appraise your house for re-sale. In which case this will not jack your real estate taxes.

      But, some areas of the country will count this new space as additional sq. ft. which will increase homes appraised value and with that you’ll experience an increase in your real estate taxes. It’s best to call a local appraiser in your immediate area and ask if this new space counts towards higher appraisal of your home once completed.


  130. Hey guys. I have a vertical hairline crack in one of my walls. There’s no evidence of moisture and I’m wondering if I need to address that before finishing a wall in front of it.

    • Hey Steve! Yeah man I would caulk that crack with some concrete hydro-static caulking made specifically for masonry products. It is probably not cracked the whole way through to the outside they hardly ever are.

      But, you need to address this crack before you cover it up forever!


  131. Hello! I am starting a finishing project in my basement. My house is about 12 years old and there is no sign of any leakage. Only half of the basement is below grade by the way. I am stuck behind the idea of to go ahead an waterproofer for piece of mind or skip that step?

    • I would damp-proof all my wall if you have masonry block walls. It’s better to be safe than sorry down the road with an unforeseen act of God!
      Use DryLock masonry sealer from Home Depot! You just never know with “block unit” walls what the future of a possible leak holds.


  132. Hi i just purchased your DVD’s. Quick question: My outside walls are already built so what video should i start with to start my inside walls? Should i watch the first framing videos anyways?

    • Hey Danny! I would watch them all because I show you how to layout walls in Part 1 and you will need to know how to do this first, before you start on your inside wall framing!


  133. My unfinished basement walls are covered by insulation with shiny cover. The insulation is nailed to the concrete walls. What is the easiest way to pull the concrete nails from the walls?

    • Hello and thanks for stopping by my basement finishing website! Don’t remove this insulation! This insulation is a good thing…not bad! If you are planning on finishing your basement, this existing insulation will only add to the overall R-value of your basement.

      This existing insulation that you have will already give your basement an R-11 insulation value for your basement walls. Just leave this insulation in-place and enjoy this added level of insulation value. My company deals w/ this insulation type a lot. We leave it and build our new 2″ x 4″ walls directly in front of this “insulation wrap” that a lot of newer builders are using. We then insulate our newly framed basement walls w/ additional R-13 fiberglass (paper-faced) insulation. There is no such thing as “to much insulation” when finishing your basement.

      So… long story short…keep it, don’t lose it!


  134. I too bought your A to Z Video series recently and have spent almost every non-working, waking hour watching them since then. Perfect for the Ultimate Amateur like me. I hope to get into the Basement Finishing University once I can save the money. A few questions I’ve got so far….
    1. Is there a discount to get into the University if I’ve already bought the A to Z series?

    2. We have about a 25′ crack across our concrete floor that is slightly (about 1/2 inch) raised but is showing no moisture at all. Would you do anything about that before finishing? If so, what?

    3. HD offers lots of different color loads for the ramset. Which do you use on the bottom plates?

    Finally, and forgive me if I haven’t yet run across this in the videos, but do you show us how to access key spots under the joists (water shut-offs, etc) when we drywall the ceiling?

    You’re doing a great service with what you guys are doing here. Thanks so much for affording we newbies the chance to have a basement on a budget!

    • Hello Steve! First of all… I’m Glad your getting answers to your basement questions with the Pro Video A to Z Videos!

      1.) Yes. Folks that are already a Pro Video A to Z Member can upgrade to the University for $97.00
      2.) The concrete floor issue is OK if your going to be using Carpeting and Pad. If your tiling this area I would repair the crack before tiling. Other than that this type of crack is popular in basements and will not effect the walls being built over top of this type crack.
      3.) We use the #4 Yellow load for all of our fastening purposes.
      4.) Yes we do. We show you how to use the “plumbers access panels” to hide shutoff’s in ceilings and walls that are to be drywalled for future access to all of these different types of shutoffs.

      Thanks for your purchase Steve. I’m always here for my students 7 days a week.


      • Crazy how quickly you responded to my first and only post. You guys are legit and extremely appreciated! I’ve saved some money and am now anxious to get access to the University videos…especially the training on how to use the Home Designer Suite software. Since I’ve already purchased the A to Z videos, how do I get in by paying $97 instead of the full $197? Is it a coupon code? Any help is appreciated. Thanks

  135. Can you tell me the difference between the two sets of training videos you offer (Pro video series from A to Z and the advanced university series), I see that one is $99 vs the other being $197? I have watched all of your utube videos, are both series different than those videos?

    • The Basement Finishing University has twice as much training as the Pro Video A to Z product.

      The Basement Finishing University(BFU) has everything the Pro Video A to Z does, which is the 27 basement training videos. But it goes a lot deeper into the entire project at the Basement Finishing University(BFU).

      Here is what the BFU has that the Pro Video A to Z does not:

      1.) How to Design the basement and create a “working floor plan” (7 hours of training)
      2.) Basement finishing MindMap
      3.) 48 How-to tool videos that teach you what tool you need and demonstrate how they are used during the project.
      4.) 15 Bonus training Idea videos (6 Hours of additional videos)
      5.) Resources tab and 24 hour support
      6.) Private student community forum where you can get your questions answered personally by me 7 days a week.

      That’s a lot more at the BFU, it’s a very good value!

      Hope this helps.

      I’m always around if you have any questions about your project, just shoot me an email!

      Take care.


  136. Hi Eddie. I am interested in purchasing your Basement Finishing Video Series. Do your videos detail options for securing the bottom plate to a concrete floor. The concrete is 22 years old.
    By the way, I am very impressed with your videos. You make it look so easy. For me it is never easy, but I enjoy doing it.

    • Thanks Dennis! Yes we are very specific in the training on fastening your bottom plates to the floor with the Ramset.

      Thanks for commenting. I’m here if you have any questions during your project.


  137. Your videos were a GREAT investment. I bought the pro series and watched the videos before and during my basement build. Did it all myself and spent $25K (1,200 sq ft). It was a lot of fun for a DIY’er like me. What an adventure. The basement was later appraised and added $60K to the value of my house. Thanks Eddie!

    • HOLY COW! Awesome man! I knew you could do it…and ya did! Congrats man! I’m super super proud of you! Looks like ya saved a TON of money and learned a whole bunch in the process. I wish more people could talk to someone like you so they too would know that anybody can doo this if they properly trained!

      AWESOME AWESOME!! Send me some pics and videos man…I’d love to it.


  138. Hey Eddie;

    YouTube brought me to your site. What a GREAT idea!

    I noticed in your beginning framing video that the basement walls were bare concrete. But the newer house we’re in (built in 2008) has that wide thick insulation all along the walls. Looks like the stuff was professionally nailed to the walls.

    Do I have to take that insulation down to do the framing, or can I frame right in front of that insulation?

    Best regards,
    Bill Heldman

    • No keep that wall “wrap” on there it just more R-Value to your finished walls and project!
      Thanks for stopping by my site and for the positive feedback!I’m always around if you have any questions about your project.


  139. Hey Eddie, I just stumbled upon your website and think it’s great! It will really help me finish my basement. Quick question: I’m thinking of doing my insulation in the form of 1.5 inch rigid panels. How should I lay out my walls? I was thinking I would just snap the chalk line an extra 1.5 inches out from the concrete, but will that be enough? It seems like the uneven surface of the foundation walls (there are raised vertical ridges corresponding to the seams of the forms used during pouring) will push the rigid panels out. How should I plan for that?

    • Well we don’t use the rigid foam on our projects Robert. But if I was to use it, I would install it first to the concrete or block walls and then just come the normal 4 1/2″ off of the foam and snap my wall lines and proceed as normal.

      Hope this helps Robert.


  140. Hello Again Eddie

    How do I get access to the Basement Finishing University site? I have purchased the downloadable content (27 videos plus the materials list). Is there additional content at the new site? Thanks for the information regarding the design software, will purchase it pronto.

    Kim and Fred

  141. Eddie

    Great videos, thank you for all the effort you and your crew have put into producing them.

    Could you recommend a layout out software to do our floor plan. We are both very computer literate and think this would be of value before we chalk our first line on the floor.

    Kim and Fred
    PS My wife loves the tool section at Lowes and Home Depot as much as I do. Our basement is our final big project after redoing the rest of our home. We custom made all of our kitchen cabinets from stick lumber raised panel doors and all. Looking forward to taking on the basement now.

    • Hi Fred! I sure can. Try Home Designer suite 2013 or 2012 made by Chief Architect. This is the program that I use. I show you how to run the program over at the Basement Finishing University.


  142. Eddie, I just purchased the complete collection of DIY videos, in addition to these videos. Is there a way to download you other videos available in you site; like basement design, Basement Finishing Project Stages, Designing Your Basement, Basement Framing Layout Tips, etc?


    • Hello Manuel! I believe you are referring to my YouTube Videos. YouTube will allow you to save them to your favorites but will not allow you to download them to your computer…their rules not mine!


  143. Hello,

    Purchased the A-Z video and watched the electric parts. Have a few questions:

    1/ how to re-use or move the existing light fixture and outlet which was installed by builder

    2/ my county has the following requirement “In habitable rooms other than bathrooms and kitchens one or more receptacles controlled by a wall switch shall be considered equivalent to the required lighting outlet”, what does it mean? It needs a wall switch to control the outlet? How many outlets need that way?

    Thanks so much!


    • Hello Lin! We remove them all. What you have to do is find out which breaker in your panel box controls these lights and outlets and then turn it off. Then remove the outlets and light fixtures. Then remove the wires that fed these lights and outlets.

      You must make sure that when you do this you do not “kill” any other outlets or lighting circuits in other parts of your house! If your not sure about this operation call an electrician and have him do this for you. I teach you how to wire your basement from “ground zero” using all new wiring and new fixture. Removing old light and outlet circuits is called “debugging” wiring circuits, and should only be done if you understand where every wire that your debugging has it’s connection origins.

      Thanks for stopping by our basement finishing website!


  144. My basement floor has a hole in it about 18″ X 18″ the slab is about 12″ thick and a sump pimp sits on a gravel base, which always has about 1″ to 2″ of water at the bottom. There is no plastic container of any kind collecting the water that runs into the hole from a 4″ pipe running under the slab along with water from the ground itself.

    I am not a contractor, I am a home owner with a lot of free time on my hands. Do you have a video that will guide me to remedying this wet situation.

    Thank you for your assistance


    • Hello Mark! Well…this is a form of sump pump that was poured most likely when they poured your basement floor. This “pit” as it’s called, is collecting ground water that enters the pit from the 4″ pipe. This system has to remain active.

      You could cut a piece of plywood (treated plywood) and cover the pit, even bolt the plywood down tight if you want too. There really should be a sump pump sitting down inside this hole with a discharge pipe leading back outside the home. This pump would save your basement from flooding in case of an act of god! I would wast no time installing a sump pump in this hole and then get it plumbed out into your yard.Then I would install the plywood over-top of the sump pump pit by cutting a hole in the plywood to fit around the pump pipe and the pumps power cord. I would then seal the pit with the pump inside it with a bead of silicon caulking.

      Hope this helps.


  145. I purchased your complete set and watching on the electric part. I have a question about the existing light in my basement, how do you treat them, just leave it or remove it? I didn’t see that part in your video.



    • Take the bulb out and cap the wires with nut caps then buy a “blank” cover and cover the box sealing it up so no wires are visible. You can then drywall around this box and then re-install the blank cover after drywall and paint.

      Or, you can “debug” the light wire this is when you remove the light fixture and also remove the existing light wire it’self from the circuit. This should be done by a registered licensed electrician if you you are not 100% comfortable doing this. If you try it make sure you turn off the breaker that controls the electricity to that lighting circuit before you begin this project…VERY VERY IMPORTANT SO YOU DO NOT GET SHOCKED!

      Hope this helps Lin.


  146. Whats up Eddie, big fan of your work. watching a lot of your videos taught me so much i appreciate that. I have a question on the Base Trim video… i’m getting a lot better using the copping saw for inside corners then again you know a lot of contractors always have something to say. One of them said “That is what the tilt on the miter saw is for. you don’t need the cope saw.” I believe your way is the best way to do it. I wanted to know fromyou what is the tilt on the miter saw used for? thanks

    • Hi Chris! Well some guys will use the “bevel” (you call it tilt) cut feature on the power miter and cut into the the base trim on a 45 degree angle for the “straight cut” portion of the base trim to save a few cope saw strokes by hand, but they still have to finish-out the cope cut with the cope saw once they get to the “detail” section of the base trim no matter what they do.

      I have always found it just as easy to just use my cope saw for the entire cut and I skip the miter saw stuff! Just me…and just my opinion. Most guys do it my way that I’ve worked with over the years! Good luck with your basement finishing trim project Chris!


    • Your welcome Oscar! Thanks for visiting our basement finishing training site for home owners! I’m always around if you have any questions about your basement finish project.


  147. Eddie – thanks for the free look at your videos. Couple of questions. My house is constructed with 6x2s – should I frame out any additional walls with 4x2s or pay for the extra wood!!! Secondly – I have a large area 25×20 foot room that I want to split into two, building a dividing wall 20 feet wide in the middle. I haven’t looked to see if HD have 20 foot long lumber…… thought i’d see if there was a more manageable short cut first.

    • Hello Rodger thanks for stopping by our basement finishing training site! Just Use 2″ x 4″ for your basement project there is absolutely no reason to use 2″ x 6″ in the basement project…save your money!

      The longest framing lumber for your walls plates is 16′-0″ at the Home Depot or most any other lumber yard for that matter. You will just build a 16′ wall and then finish out with a smaller section of wall and fasten the two walls together where they meet…very simple to do Rodger.


  148. I purchased your complete set and so far love it! I’ve only watched the framing videos and I have a question about gluing in addition to ramsetting the 2×4 “plates” or “block nail” pieces to the concrete? Or is it overkill?

    Thank you for creating these videos!


    • Hi Jimmy thanks for your purchase! Well gluing the block nailing to the wall is ok but is still not a requirement…although it doesn’t hurt either.

      Gluing to the bottom wall plates when setting your wall is a waste of time and money, you don’t do it!The Ramset into the concrete floor is all you need for securing walls at the base plate.

      Hope this helps. Thanks for stopping by the basement finishing website!


  149. Hi,
    My basement has a french drain around the perimeter how do I adjust bottom plate measurements from wall to accommodate gap for drain? We don’t get water in the basement but comes standard on all homes in my area. Also do you recommend polystyrene for vapor barrier?

    Thank you,

    • Chris,

      Hey Pete Thanks for stopping by the Site! Well, If your French Drain is all under concrete with a sump pump pit or two located in corners(s) of your basement you will simply measure out from the wall 4 1/2″ and snap your chalk Line. I usually refer to this type of waterproof system as a “perimeter” waterproof system and I think that’s what your describing here.

      AS far as polystyrene for a vapor barrier goes I do not recommend doing this! If you have damp walls use a water sealer like DryLock or Thorough-Seal to coat your walls 1st, and this would only be done if your walls are Masonry (“block” walls) units. If you have concrete walls no need to even water-seal them because concrete walls do not get damp in basements, but they can “leak” if they have major cracks in them in which case these must be professionally repaired before finishing the basement.

      If your good and dry down there Frame-away!! you will only need to insulate with a R-13 “paper-faced” fiberglass insulation between the studs in your new exterior 2″ x 4″ walls…this is all ya need to stay comfy and warm!

      Hope this helps buddy, good luck with the basement project!


  150. Hi,
    I need to understand how much moisture is too much to prevent me from finishing my basement. I have one wall of a block foundation walk-out in which the bottom 6″ sweats (moist to touch) during the Summer months. Is this a deal killer? Remediation techniques? Thanks!

    • Hey Perry! No man that is NOT a deal Killer lol! This is a perfect situation for the “DryLock” product available at Home Depot. You will simply coat every inch of your block walls according to manufactures instruction for DryLock and this will solve your “dampness” problem 100% for sure. Now, if you had “standing” water on the floor or puddles that would be a different type of problem, but that also has a good remedy! Thanks for commenting and good luck with the project my friend!


  151. Will the AtoZ download reside on my p.c. in a way that I can use it when off line? Will it be usable if your website is temporarily (or permanently) down? TIA…sam

    • Yes that is correct. It will be stored on your computers hard drive permanently. You will then be able to access all of the videos when you are off-line anytime.
      If my website is down it will not matter you will still have them safely on your Hard Drive forever and ever amen!

      Thanks for your interest in the training videos.


  152. I am just starting a basement renovation and enjoy your videos as they are very informative. We are considering contractors but their prices are outrageous for a 520 sq. foot area. Prices range from $20k to $24k.

    I know I can do this myself but time is the real roadblock.

    Two questions – do you frame the wall, then lift it up into position or get the top and bottom plates installed first, then place studs? Also, do you plumb the top plates with plumb line or use a 2×4 and level?

    I really want to get going on this and my framing nailer yearns to be used! I even have a whole box of nails ready…just need the materials.


    • I would like to start out by saying that my Basement Framing Series [ ] will give a step by step set of instructions in explicit detail on this matter leaving “no stone unturned”!

      But, NO I do not “Stick Build” my walls as you are asking me! This is NOT the way you build straight Plumb walls in a basement environment, you build them complete lying down flat on the floor and then you do stand them up into final position. And YES this can be done on every wall you build. Folks that really do not have a “clue” how to frame like a professional framer sometimes think this is the way to do things, it’s not their fault, they just do not know any better!

      Fastening the bottom wall plate to the concrete floor and then fastening the top wall plate to the bottom of the floor joist before installing any of the wall studs is NOT a good way to build. This means that you will be “Toe-nailing” every single stud into position at the top and bottom of the studs! This decreases the strength of the wall vs. nailing straight down through the top and bottom plates like a professional would frame. PLUS it take 10 X’s as long to accomplish.

      Never plumb a wall with a level and a 2″ x 4″ , you use a Plumb Bob to Plumb wall lines from the floor to the ceiling…Gravity never tells a lie!

      Hope this helps Bill. Good luck with your basement project.


  153. Eddie,
    Great videos. I bought the series a while back and am in the midst of completing the framing on my basement project. Before I continue, I would like to see the videos on how to build both a Wet Bar and a Wine Room. Are these videos available?

    • The Bar Video will be available soon, but I do not have a 100% solid date for it’s release yet! Thanks for your purchase and the interest in future basement training products.


  154. My husband and I will be re-finishing our basement and will be installing egress windows in concrete block walls. Do your videos cover that? We also want to install wood laminate flooring and have questions regarding vapor barrier underneath. Do you cover that as well?

  155. Eddie

    I purchased the complete set and it is worth every penny! I have a question about the landing at the bottom of the steps. I couldn’t find any detail. I’m assuming ripping 2×8 pt and 1/2 or 3/4 plywood on top? Should I leave a little overhang to the basement floor? Thanks.


    • Joe that is correct. Rip 2″ x 8″‘s and cap over them with 3/4 plywood so your finished landing height “flushes-out” with the top of the existing 1st step. You can also remove the first tread and frame the landing to the top of the stair stringer and then plywood over the landing deck and the stringer at the same time.


    • No we do not. I do not recommend metal stud for framing basements because the trim and door applications need to screwed to the metal studs which is a pain in the “rump” to do. Also with metal studs you will be using a much different type of electric box for outlets and switch boxes and these require a whole new set of rules as well. I strongly advise you to use wood for framing a basement using pressure treated bottom pales for all your basement walls.

      Hope this helps.


  156. I wanna buy Tom a BEER! As a raw rookie my basement came out great! A buddy of mine who works at Depot and is great with his hands could not believe how well my drywall finishing skills are. He told me he learned something from watching me! I told him, I don’t know anything other than how to follow instructions. Thanks Eddy and especially Tom for making it a fun and successful project, and enabling ME to tell my wife “I told YOU so” for a change!

    • Your welcome Rob! We’re glad you had fun with the project first of all! And, Tom and I are a very happy to be making these videos for “newbie” homeowners givin-it hell on weekends and evenings! Thanks for your awesome comment! Take care.


  157. Questions about the basement Videos? Leave your questions here and I will answer any and all questions you might have about your basement finishing project or the basement finishing video training.


  158. Hi there, just wondering if in your videos you explain how much material I would need. Like how much lumber, drywall, screws and what tools are needed to finish the basement from scratch. Do you explain how to do the electrical and plumbing as well? Also, how to finish the flooring, because right now its just concrete floor uneven in spots. Looking forward to hearing from you.

    • AS of right now David I only have them as Instant Downloads. I will have them available in my membership site at the Basement Finishing University later this spring!
      Thanks for your interest in my basement training videos and good luck with your project!


        • Most definitely! These are the most detailed step-by-step basement finishing videos in the market currently. Complete training for basements A to Z.


          • Hello I like the good tips on drywall and ceiling ,taping, mudding, this video will really but me to know about professional drywalling, for my future company, I would recommend this to those that need to know, before, starting their own business.

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